Instructions for old style sleeves.

4 files changed, 90 insertions, 3 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1001-first_gusset_seam.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1001-first_gusset_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2660b43
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1001-first_gusset_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1002-gusset_and_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1002-gusset_and_side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..83dc5d0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1002-gusset_and_side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1003-felling_seams.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1003-felling_seams.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a83c936
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/1003-felling_seams.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index 997f9a8..80508f3 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -176,7 +176,7 @@ back:
    ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1);
 front:
    a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as
-   ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8);
+   ``shirt_length_front`` (A — A8);
 sleeves:
    the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of
    ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of
@@ -405,7 +405,7 @@ remove the collar from the assembly.
 .. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg
    :align: center
 
-Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
+Sandwich the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
 together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two
 shoulders. Press up.
 
@@ -712,7 +712,7 @@ two halves of the yoke pieces.
    :align: center
 
 Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it
-between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck.
+between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitch.
 
 .. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg
    :align: center
@@ -754,6 +754,93 @@ Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the
 sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular
 instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt.
 
+Old Style Sleeves
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+To make old style straight sleeves with a gusset, cut two rectangles as
+long as ``sleeve_length`` and as wide as ``sleeve_width`` and two
+squares for the gussets: note that this style of sleeve works best when
+it's quite wide, at least 3/4 of the body width is probably best; as for
+the gusset, 20-25 cm is usually good.
+
+.. figure:: 1001-first_gusset_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put a side of a sleeve over a gusset, aligned at the top, and with the
+gusset one sewing allowance out from the sleeve, sew with a (running)
+backstitch from the top until one sewing allowance from the end of the
+gusset. Press the allowances open and then towards the sleeve, but don't
+finish the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 1002-gusset_and_side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, right sides together, fold the
+gusset on the diagonal and align it and the rest of the sleeve over the
+free side of the sleeve, at one sewing allowance from the edge, sew down
+the gusset and then continue through the sleeve making sure not to sew
+over the allowance of the previous seam. Press the allowance open, and
+then towards the side with the gusset.
+
+.. note:: if sewing by machine, you will have to stop the seam at the
+   end of the gusset, and start it again with the sleeve.
+
+.. figure:: 1003-felling_seams.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the wider allowance of the gusset over the narrower allowance of
+the sleeve to make a flat-felled seam, then the wider allowance of the
+sleeve over that of the gusset and the rest of the seam, making sure
+that at the point of the gusset everything is neat. Hemstitch.
+
+Repeat with the other sleeve, making sure to make the sleeves
+symmetrical, so that on each sleeve all seams are pressed towards the
+back.
+
+Open a slit and add the cuff like in the instructions above, noting that
+there will be significantly more sleeve material to be gathered in the
+cuff.
+
+Run two lines of gathering thread at the top of the sleeve, excluding
+the gusset, gather to about the same length of the cuff, insert the
+sleeve into the shirt as per the instructions above, noting that the
+gathers will probably extend a bit beyond the yoke.
+
+The neatest — but slowest — method of inserting this kind of sleeve is
+probably that where the sleeve and armscye are both hemmed, and then
+whipstitched together.
+
+Hemmed and whipstitched side and sleeve seams
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+If you already have a suitable armscye line to copy, a neat but slow
+method to assemble the sides of the shirt is as follows:
+
+When you get to the `Assembly of the Body`_ stage, copy the armscye
+seamline and cut the excess fabric with enough allowance to make a
+narrow hem.
+
+Hem all around the shirt by making a double fold and hemstitching it.
+
+Hem the same way the top of the sleeve, run two lines of gathering
+stitches in the hem in the area that will have to be gathered in the
+shoulder piece.
+
+Right sides together, align the front over the back so that the back is
+8–10 cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting),
+whipstitch starting from the end of the armscye to a point 8–10 cm from
+the bottom edge of the front.
+
+Right sides together, put a sleeve inside the armscye, starting from the
+bottom near the side seam, pin it flat on both sides to the front and
+back, and then pin the gathered part to the shoulder piece. Whipstitch
+all around, catching each gather.
+
+In this method there won't be any raw edge visible at the point where
+the side seam ends, so there is no need to cover them with small
+patches, but you may want to reinforce the weak point with a bar of
+buttonhole thread covered in buttonhole stitches.
+
 Gallery
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