New pattern: multi colour cockade.HEADmaster

30 files changed, 545 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/index.rst b/source/accessories/decorations/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a4e9bd2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+******************
+ Decorative items
+******************
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   multi_colour_cockade/index
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0101-cut_pieces.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0101-cut_pieces.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0977574
--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0102-backing.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0102-backing.jpg
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index 0000000..7c44f86
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0103-pleated_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0103-pleated_ribbon.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0104-start_pinning.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0104-start_pinning.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0105-continue_pinning.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0105-continue_pinning.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0106-cut_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0106-cut_ribbon.jpg
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index 0000000..9f7dbc9
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0107-prepared_outer_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0107-prepared_outer_ribbon.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0108-pinned_outer_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0108-pinned_outer_ribbon.jpg
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index 0000000..79dfbf3
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0109-whipstitching_outer_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0109-whipstitching_outer_ribbon.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0110-pinned_ring.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0110-pinned_ring.jpg
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index 0000000..97adad9
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0111-second_ribbon.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0111-second_ribbon.jpg
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index 0000000..f1e325a
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0112-sewing_center_piece.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0112-sewing_center_piece.jpg
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index 0000000..5679c70
--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0113-sewing_felt.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0113-sewing_felt.jpg
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index 0000000..474e282
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0201-scrap_of_buckram.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0201-scrap_of_buckram.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0202-sewing_pin.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0202-sewing_pin.jpg
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index 0000000..f9866e7
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0203-back_of_sewn_pin.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0203-back_of_sewn_pin.jpg
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index 0000000..d6f60c2
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0204-sewing_buckram_to_cockade.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0204-sewing_buckram_to_cockade.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0301-ribbon_knot.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0301-ribbon_knot.jpg
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index 0000000..3b18b42
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0302-flattened_knot.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0302-flattened_knot.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0303-whipstitching_knot.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0303-whipstitching_knot.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0304-tacking_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/0304-tacking_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg
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diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_bean.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_bean.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_bean.jpg
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_with_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_with_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/cockade_with_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/index.rst b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/index.rst
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,237 @@
+Multi Colour Cockade
+====================
+
+.. figure:: cockade_bean.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+* about 1 m ribbon in each colour;
+* optional, a button, a pin or a bead as a center piece;
+* some scraps of backing material: felt, buckram or both;
+* sewing thread that matches the felt and/or the centermost ribbon.
+
+Any kind of ribbon could be used, but the best ones, especially for your
+first attempts, should press easily and keep their shape.
+
+For the backing, you could simply use some felt, but having a layer of
+some stiffer material, like buckram or even just some stiff fabric,
+will give more stability to the result; it should be some material that
+doesn't fray, or you should finish it before using.
+
+A second layer of backing is added to cover the first one and make the
+result neater: for this one felt is a nice choice.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Draw a circle as big as your center piece, or with the same radius as
+the width of your ribbon if using a small center piece like a bead, then
+draw more concentric circles each with a radius bigger than the
+previous one by two thirds of the width of the ribbon used for that
+layer.
+
+For 15 mm ribbons you can download a pattern from :download:`cockade_15mm.svg`.
+
+I'd recommend printing the pattern on scrap paper, as it will have to be
+cut and pinned into, and it will be easier to work with two.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+.. figure:: 0101-cut_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut one of the paper patterns at the widest circle, and another one at
+the next smaller circle.
+
+Cut one piece of the stiffer backing material the size of the latter
+pattern. Cut also a piece of felt in the same size, and put it to the
+side.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-backing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the backing to the complete paper pattern, mark the center point.
+
+.. figure:: 0103-pleated_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Measure the circumference of the outer circle of the pattern, pleat the
+outer ribbon to about that length, starting with a folded edge and
+pinning each pleat, but don't cut the end.
+
+.. tip:: Knife pleats 5 mm deep every 10 mm are a good starting point,
+   and what is being used in this tutorial, but feel free to experiment
+   with different pleat patterns.
+
+.. figure:: 0104-start_pinning.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Starting a couple pleats from the free end, remove the pin from one of
+the pleats, align that pleat with the outer edge of the pattern and pin
+it back to the backing.
+
+.. figure:: 0105-continue_pinning.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Remove the pin from the next pleat, curve the ribbon following the outer
+edge of the pattern and pin the pleat back to itself and the backing.
+Continue doing so until close to the end.
+
+.. tip:: 
+
+   .. figure:: tt01-buried_pins.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   At this stage bury the points of the pins between the backing
+   and the paper pattern, to minimize the risk of stabbing.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0106-cut_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+When only a few pleats remain, cut the ribbon at the right length 
+
+.. figure:: 0107-prepared_outer_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+and nest the end into the fold at the beginning, hiding the raw edges;
+
+.. figure:: 0108-pinned_outer_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+pin the joint and the remaining pleats to the backing.
+
+.. figure:: 0109-whipstitching_outer_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Whipstitch the ribbon to the backing at the base, taking at least two or
+three stitches in each of the pleats.
+
+.. tip:: If you've buried the points of the pins, pull out the two or
+   three in front of where you're sewing to be able to manipulate the
+   needle into the fabric.
+
+.. figure:: 0110-pinned_ring.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut the next size ring from the second paper pattern, measure its outer
+circumference and pin it to the front of the cockade, centred on it,
+and above the ribbon you've just sewn.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: tt02-aligning_patterns.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   You can use the rest of the paper pattern to help align the ring.
+
+.. figure:: 0111-second_ribbon.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pleat the next ribbon and pin it to the paper pattern and the backing
+and whipstitch it to the backing like the previous step.
+
+Repeat for the remaining ribbons.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: tt03-center_ribbon_stabbing.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   for the ribbon closest to the center there may not be enough
+   space to insert the needle, so you may have to remove the paper
+   pattern from the back, and use a stabbing motion to do the sewing.
+
+Remove all the paper patterns.
+
+If the centrepiece is not flat, give a good press to the cockade, to fix
+the pleats in place, otherwise you may do it after it has been attached.
+
+.. figure:: 0112-sewing_center_piece.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the centrepiece to the center of the cockade, trying to hide the
+stitches.
+
+.. figure:: 0113-sewing_felt.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the felt backing to the sturdy backing with a blanket stitch, going
+all around the circumference.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Pin backing
+^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-scrap_of_buckram.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+To add a pin backing, cut a small scrap of sturdy backing material
+bigger than the pin. Odd shapes are fine.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-sewing_pin.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0203-back_of_sewn_pin.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the sturdy backing to the felt backing, and sew the pin to both,
+centred on the felt.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-sewing_buckram_to_cockade.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the felt over the back of the cockade, whipstitch the sturdy backing
+to the backing of the cockade, for added security.
+
+Sew the felt to the cockade as above.
+
+Pentagonal centrepiece
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-ribbon_knot.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Make a knot at one end of the ribbon.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-flattened_knot.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pull it flat and cut the ribbon.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-whipstitching_knot.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the ends to the back, and whipstitch them closed, making sure not
+to catch the layers of ribbon visible from the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0304-tacking_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Tack the centrepiece to the cockade with a few stitches in the middle,
+hidden by its top layers.
+
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: cockade_with_pentagonal_centrepiece.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+
+See Also
+--------
+
+* `How To Make 18th c. Cockades
+  <https://blog.americanduchess.com/2010/04/how-to-make-18th-c-cockades.html>`_
+  on the American Duchess blog: my main source of inspiration, which
+  however used either just one colour, or wider ribbons to make
+  additional layers, and wouldn't work very well for the four colours
+  cockade I wanted to make.
+* `A forum post commenting on the above tutorial
+  <https://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/military-forums/camp-of-instruction/18697-easy-to-make-cockades#post163741>`_ and recommending buckram as a backing material instead of felt.
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt01-buried_pins.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt01-buried_pins.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0f29f0f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt01-buried_pins.jpg
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt02-aligning_patterns.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt02-aligning_patterns.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..421f0da
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt02-aligning_patterns.jpg
diff --git a/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt03-center_ribbon_stabbing.jpg b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt03-center_ribbon_stabbing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..786cbc2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/accessories/decorations/multi_colour_cockade/tt03-center_ribbon_stabbing.jpg
diff --git a/source/accessories/index.rst b/source/accessories/index.rst
index 659a363..b9568cc 100644
--- a/source/accessories/index.rst
+++ b/source/accessories/index.rst
@@ -8,3 +8,4 @@
 
    bags/index
    cases/index
+   decorations/index