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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst')
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 997f9a8..80508f3 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -176,7 +176,7 @@ back: ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1); front: a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as - ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8); + ``shirt_length_front`` (A — A8); sleeves: the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of @@ -405,7 +405,7 @@ remove the collar from the assembly. .. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg :align: center -Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides +Sandwich the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two shoulders. Press up. @@ -712,7 +712,7 @@ two halves of the yoke pieces. :align: center Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it -between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck. +between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitch. .. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg :align: center @@ -754,6 +754,93 @@ Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. +Old Style Sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To make old style straight sleeves with a gusset, cut two rectangles as +long as ``sleeve_length`` and as wide as ``sleeve_width`` and two +squares for the gussets: note that this style of sleeve works best when +it's quite wide, at least 3/4 of the body width is probably best; as for +the gusset, 20-25 cm is usually good. + +.. figure:: 1001-first_gusset_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of a sleeve over a gusset, aligned at the top, and with the +gusset one sewing allowance out from the sleeve, sew with a (running) +backstitch from the top until one sewing allowance from the end of the +gusset. Press the allowances open and then towards the sleeve, but don't +finish the seam. + +.. figure:: 1002-gusset_and_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, right sides together, fold the +gusset on the diagonal and align it and the rest of the sleeve over the +free side of the sleeve, at one sewing allowance from the edge, sew down +the gusset and then continue through the sleeve making sure not to sew +over the allowance of the previous seam. Press the allowance open, and +then towards the side with the gusset. + +.. note:: if sewing by machine, you will have to stop the seam at the + end of the gusset, and start it again with the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 1003-felling_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the wider allowance of the gusset over the narrower allowance of +the sleeve to make a flat-felled seam, then the wider allowance of the +sleeve over that of the gusset and the rest of the seam, making sure +that at the point of the gusset everything is neat. Hemstitch. + +Repeat with the other sleeve, making sure to make the sleeves +symmetrical, so that on each sleeve all seams are pressed towards the +back. + +Open a slit and add the cuff like in the instructions above, noting that +there will be significantly more sleeve material to be gathered in the +cuff. + +Run two lines of gathering thread at the top of the sleeve, excluding +the gusset, gather to about the same length of the cuff, insert the +sleeve into the shirt as per the instructions above, noting that the +gathers will probably extend a bit beyond the yoke. + +The neatest — but slowest — method of inserting this kind of sleeve is +probably that where the sleeve and armscye are both hemmed, and then +whipstitched together. + +Hemmed and whipstitched side and sleeve seams +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If you already have a suitable armscye line to copy, a neat but slow +method to assemble the sides of the shirt is as follows: + +When you get to the `Assembly of the Body`_ stage, copy the armscye +seamline and cut the excess fabric with enough allowance to make a +narrow hem. + +Hem all around the shirt by making a double fold and hemstitching it. + +Hem the same way the top of the sleeve, run two lines of gathering +stitches in the hem in the area that will have to be gathered in the +shoulder piece. + +Right sides together, align the front over the back so that the back is +8–10 cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting), +whipstitch starting from the end of the armscye to a point 8–10 cm from +the bottom edge of the front. + +Right sides together, put a sleeve inside the armscye, starting from the +bottom near the side seam, pin it flat on both sides to the front and +back, and then pin the gathered part to the shoulder piece. Whipstitch +all around, catching each gather. + +In this method there won't be any raw edge visible at the point where +the side seam ends, so there is no need to cover them with small +patches, but you may want to reinforce the weak point with a bar of +buttonhole thread covered in buttonhole stitches. + Gallery ------- |