Some instructions and a picturecartridge

2 files changed, 25 insertions, 4 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5417c3d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
index bbb449f..7bf5d6e 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
@@ -4,7 +4,18 @@ Cartridge Pleated Skirt
 .. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg
    :align: center
 
-These are quite generic instructions for a skirt 
+These are quite generic instructions for a skirt made of a long
+rectangle cartridge pleated into a waistband (or into a bodice).
+
+As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including
+the mid 19th century and I believe Elisabethian period, but also many
+styles of European folk dress.
+
+These instructions assume handsewing: other than the cartridge pleating
+everything can be done by machine, by sewing a straight stitch when the
+instructions mention (running) backstitches, and topstitching with a
+straight stitch instead of prick stitcking and hem/applique stitching,
+the latter of course with a different look.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -12,7 +23,7 @@ Materials
 Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
-* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen or wool;
+* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool;
 * 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing.
 
 
@@ -21,6 +32,7 @@ Notions
 
 * sewing thread to match the fabric;
 * stronger thread for the gathering seam, e.g. linen buttonhole;
+* optional stiffening for the hem facing (tarlatan or sturdy linen);
 * at least 3 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge.
 
 Pattern
@@ -108,14 +120,23 @@ Press the raw edge of the facing 1 cm towards the wrong side.
 Press flat and then press up, trying to leave about 1 mm of the front
 fabric showing on the back.
 
-.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) you can
-   also let about 1 mm of the facing show on the front and skip 
+.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) and not
+   touching the ground you can also let about 1 mm of the facing show on
+   the front and skip adding the hem protector; you will then have to
+   change the facing when it gets ruined, but the main fabric will be
+   protected by it.
 
 Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with a running
 stitch.
 
 Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt.
 
+Applique stitch the skirt to the hem protector, letting about 1 mm of
+the protector show in the front;
+
+and hem stitch the other side of the hem protector to the skirt,
+catching only the facing.
+
 Top edge
 --------