added some picturescartridge

6 files changed, 46 insertions, 17 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0101-sewing_panels.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0101-sewing_panels.jpg
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0101-sewing_panels.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..22e4ec0
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..87f93f5
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0202-attaching_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0202-attaching_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/0202-attaching_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
index 7bf5d6e..9ffc101 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
@@ -11,11 +11,15 @@ As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including
 the mid 19th century and I believe Elisabethian period, but also many
 styles of European folk dress.
 
-These instructions assume handsewing: other than the cartridge pleating
-everything can be done by machine, by sewing a straight stitch when the
-instructions mention (running) backstitches, and topstitching with a
-straight stitch instead of prick stitcking and hem/applique stitching,
-the latter of course with a different look.
+These instructions add a waistband and attach the cartridge pleats to
+it: for many historical styles you will have to skip the waistband and
+attach the pleats directly to a finished bodice.
+
+These instructions assume handsewing: attaching the cartridge pleating
+needs to be done by hand, but as usual all (running) backstitches can be
+sewn by machine with a straight stitch without showing, and prick
+stitching and hem/applique stitching can be visibly substituted by a
+straight (or decorative) topstitch.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -26,7 +30,6 @@ Fabric
 * At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool;
 * 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing.
 
-
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
 
@@ -75,6 +78,9 @@ Instructions
 Panels
 ^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0101-sewing_panels.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Put two panels on each other, right sides together, sew one of the side
 seams with a running backstitch, starting from the hem and stopping at
 30 cm from the top.
@@ -82,8 +88,15 @@ seams with a running backstitch, starting from the hem and stopping at
 Press open; if you don't have a selvedge also press the raw edge under
 towards the seam.
 
+.. figure:: 0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 If you have a selvedge on both sides pressing the seam open may be
-enough, otherwise working from the right side, sew the raw edges down
+enough, otherwise press the seam open, then fold the raw edges under and
+press them; working from the right side, sew the raw edges down
 with a prick stitch, i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is
 much shorter than the stitch on the back, catching just a couple of
 threads of the fabric; stop this seam at some point before the top, as
@@ -103,6 +116,9 @@ until past the place where it will be folded down.
 Hem
 ^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Right sides together, sew the facing strips together with a running
 backstitch.
 
@@ -111,23 +127,32 @@ encased under the facing.
 
 Fold and press under the raw edge on one short side of the facing.
 
+.. figure:: 0202-attaching_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Right sides together, put the facing on the petticoat, starting from the
 folded edge at the center back of the skirt, sew with a running
 backstitch.
 
 Press the raw edge of the facing 1 cm towards the wrong side.
 
-Press flat and then press up, trying to leave about 1 mm of the front
-fabric showing on the back.
+Press flat and then press up.
 
-.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) and not
-   touching the ground you can also let about 1 mm of the facing show on
-   the front and skip adding the hem protector; you will then have to
-   change the facing when it gets ruined, but the main fabric will be
-   protected by it.
+.. tip:: if the facing is in a “ugly” fabric you should press the facing
+   up in such a way that about 1 mm of the main fabric shows on the
+   back, to make sure that none of the facing shows on the front.
 
-Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with a running
-stitch.
+   If, on the other hand, the facing is in the same fabric as the skirt,
+   or a nicely contrasting one, you can press it in such a way that
+   about 1 mm of the facing shows on the front, giving a sort of piping
+   effect.
+
+   In the latter case, if the skirt doesn't touch the ground you may
+   also skip the skirt protector, and change the whole facing when the
+   hem gets ruined.
+
+Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with multiple
+lines of running stitch.
 
 Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt.
 
@@ -160,7 +185,7 @@ Repeat with the waistband facing.
 
 Put the facing on top of the waistband, hemstitch all around the edges.
 
-Divide the waistband is as many parts as there are panels (and
+Divide the waistband in as many parts as there are panels (and
 optionally half that measure), mark these points.
 
 Cartridge Pleating
@@ -175,6 +200,10 @@ fabric, and starting at half such distance from the slit edge.
 
 Optionally mark the position of the center of each panel.
 
+.. tip:: if the fabric doesn't mark easily you can pin a sheet of paper
+   with the markings to the skirt, follow those markings and tear the
+   paper out before pulling the fabric to gather it.
+
 Cut three pieces of strong thread a bit longer than the waistband; fix
 them in place at one end of the skirt with 2-3 backstitches in place,
 then start running each one at the positions you have marked before.