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| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2025-03-30 21:31:34 +0200 |
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| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2025-03-30 21:31:34 +0200 |
| commit | 1f7f787981ec3959a09ad7a2e108447fabdaf244 (patch) | |
| tree | d325bde9684cf51cb2ed0a851247fa8c0d83af95 | |
| parent | 8f3274757a0b4bb05ce27537d478515810ac4f52 (diff) | |
Pattern and more instructionscartridge
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst | 52 |
1 files changed, 48 insertions, 4 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst index 968e4a1..30a331d 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst @@ -13,8 +13,7 @@ Fabric ^^^^^^ * At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen or wool; -* optional, about 2 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen; -* 60+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing. +* 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing. Notions @@ -27,8 +26,36 @@ Notions Pattern ------- -measure from your waist to where you want your skirt to finish, *above -the skirt support* you plan to use. +You need the following measurements, taken over the underpinnings and +skirt supports you plan to use: + +* length from your waist to the hem of the skirt, following the skirt + supports; +* circumference of the skirt support at the hem; +* circumference of the waist. + +The skirt will be made of panels that are as wide as the full width of +the fabric and as high as the length of the skirt plus 5 - 10 cm at the +top and 2 cm at the hem (total 7 - 12 cm). + +You need enough panels to make a skirt that is wider than the +circumference of the skirt supports: with modern 150 cm wide fabric two +panels may be just enough for a relatively narrow skirt, worn over +petticoats, but a crinoline cage will almost always require at least +three panels. + +Similarly for the hem facing you need to piece together enough +rectangles 20 cm tall to cover the full circumference of the skirt. + +Finally, if you're not attaching the skirt directly to a bodice, you'll +need a waistband: a rectangle as wide as your waist measurement plus 2 +cm allowance plus the width of an optional placket, and twice as tall as +the desired waistband height (e.g. a total of 8 cm), plus another +rectangle in facing fabric that is half a cm smaller in both directions. + +.. note:: you can also make the waistband from just a rectangle of the + main fabric that is as wide as described above and four times as tall + as the desired height, e.g. a total of 16 cm. Instructions ------------ @@ -102,6 +129,23 @@ the fabric. Waistband --------- +Fold the allowances at the short ends of the waistband towards the wrong +side, press. Fold the long edges also to the wrong side so that they +touch in the middle. + +Repeat with the waistband facing. + +Put the facing on top of the waistband, hemstitch all around the edges. + +Cartridge Pleating +------------------ + +Draw three lines horizontal on the top of the skirt, on the wrong side, +starting at 1 cm from the folded edge and with 1 cm between the lines. + +Mark + +Cut a piece of strong thread a bit longer than the waistband Gallery ------- |