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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg | bin | 0 -> 1073829 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst | 29 |
2 files changed, 25 insertions, 4 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5417c3d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst index bbb449f..7bf5d6e 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst @@ -4,7 +4,18 @@ Cartridge Pleated Skirt .. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg :align: center -These are quite generic instructions for a skirt +These are quite generic instructions for a skirt made of a long +rectangle cartridge pleated into a waistband (or into a bodice). + +As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including +the mid 19th century and I believe Elisabethian period, but also many +styles of European folk dress. + +These instructions assume handsewing: other than the cartridge pleating +everything can be done by machine, by sewing a straight stitch when the +instructions mention (running) backstitches, and topstitching with a +straight stitch instead of prick stitcking and hem/applique stitching, +the latter of course with a different look. Materials --------- @@ -12,7 +23,7 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen or wool; +* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool; * 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing. @@ -21,6 +32,7 @@ Notions * sewing thread to match the fabric; * stronger thread for the gathering seam, e.g. linen buttonhole; +* optional stiffening for the hem facing (tarlatan or sturdy linen); * at least 3 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge. Pattern @@ -108,14 +120,23 @@ Press the raw edge of the facing 1 cm towards the wrong side. Press flat and then press up, trying to leave about 1 mm of the front fabric showing on the back. -.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) you can - also let about 1 mm of the facing show on the front and skip +.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) and not + touching the ground you can also let about 1 mm of the facing show on + the front and skip adding the hem protector; you will then have to + change the facing when it gets ruined, but the main fabric will be + protected by it. Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with a running stitch. Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt. +Applique stitch the skirt to the hem protector, letting about 1 mm of +the protector show in the front; + +and hem stitch the other side of the hem protector to the skirt, +catching only the facing. + Top edge -------- |
