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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-03-25 21:05:35 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-04-05 08:17:26 +0200
commit0fd9e040fb9ad277648fe3ae92c210d88a7da0f5 (patch)
tree18e816f83ba68ff07abdc14961377afc713ad478 /source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear
parent430293826cf0b703150690c4f67a6397fa634963 (diff)
New pattern: camisole
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear')
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpgbin0 -> 962491 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpgbin0 -> 1103137 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpgbin0 -> 873457 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpgbin0 -> 1003096 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpgbin0 -> 728730 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpgbin0 -> 700763 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpgbin0 -> 790682 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpgbin0 -> 717998 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpgbin0 -> 754831 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpgbin0 -> 766086 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpgbin0 -> 856539 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val198
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst156
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst1
14 files changed, 355 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..34a5090
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d97c32f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a9f1bb5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cd6870d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..53bd723
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4e67034
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..993986c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..001963b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..08628ae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bfc746c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fdba5c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ac4e01
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val
@@ -0,0 +1,198 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="de" passmarkLength="">
+ <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.9.1</version>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <description>Based on the close fitting body block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description>
+ <notes/>
+ <patternName>Camisole</patternName>
+ <patternNumber/>
+ <company/>
+ <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+ <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+ </patternLabel>
+ <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/>
+ <increments>
+ <increment description="" formula="60" name="#finished_length"/>
+ <increment formula="2" name="#strap_width"/>
+ <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/>
+ </increments>
+ <previewCalculations/>
+ <draw name="block">
+ <calculation>
+ <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+ <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.354533" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength/8" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="90" basePoint="7" id="8" length="1.3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="10" length="across_back_b / 2 - 2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="10" id="11" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" name="A9" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point firstPoint="10" id="12" mx="-2.20412" my="0.415319" name="A10" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point firstPoint="12" id="13" length="-1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <line firstPoint="8" id="14" lineColor="black" secondPoint="13" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="4" id="15" length="bust_circ / 4 - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="10" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="15" id="16" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A13" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point firstPoint="15" id="17" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A14" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="18" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="13" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="135" color="black" id="19" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="15" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point firstPoint="16" id="20" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A15" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="21" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="20" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="22" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="20" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="23" length="neck_circ / 6 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A16" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="5" id="75" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+ <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="87" length="(Spl_A11_A9 + Spl_A9_A12) * 2 * 0.95" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="88" length="#strap_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="87" id="89" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" secondPoint="88" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="90" length="Spl_A17_A9 * 2 * 0.95" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="90" id="91" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" secondPoint="88" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ </calculation>
+ <modeling>
+ <point id="52" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="-1.75191" my="0.415319" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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+ <point id="83" idObject="75" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
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+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="104" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waist" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="102" type="NodePoint"/>
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+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ <point id="105" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="106" idObject="20" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="107" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waist" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="106" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ </modeling>
+ <details>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="60" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7c510c00-ab9b-4635-b603-e50b598d6a25}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="100.543" my="854.968" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="100.806" my="642.863" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
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+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="104"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ <pins>
+ <record>84</record>
+ <record>86</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="22.8015" my="0.147106" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{2f272d0b-b5b9-477d-ba20-f1b093e63ca2}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="106.311" my="807.355" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
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+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
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+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="107"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ <pins>
+ <record>83</record>
+ <record>85</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="0" my="0" name="back_binding" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c214deb7-5365-4aaa-a91b-b67225370dce}" version="2" width="#strap_width">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="D" mx="133.603" my="-36.9165" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="2">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Elastic, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="49.222" my="-36.9165" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
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+ </nodes>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="101" mx="0" my="6.51062" name="straps" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b7bc1f74-0b07-4d67-b75b-c3c7a6d27ce8}" version="2" width="#strap_width">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="C" mx="136.266" my="-35.109" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="2">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="55.6877" my="-36.8669" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="98" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="99" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="100" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </detail>
+ </details>
+ <groups/>
+ </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e8aeae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,156 @@
+Camisole
+========
+
+.. figure:: camisole.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric.
+
+This is an excellent project to use leftovers.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity.
+
+You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very
+narrow.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* ~20 cm underwear elastic
+* sewing thread matching the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+ Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+ Waist circumference.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+ Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+ Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+ Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
+ Depth of the armscye.
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`camisole.val`.
+
+You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
+Variables; the defaults are sensible.
+
+``finished_length``
+ lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual
+ camisole will be shorter).
+``strap_width``
+ width of the straps and of the binding for the back.
+``seam_allowance``
+ enought for flat felled seams.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given
+for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric.
+
+Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear
+elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding.
+
+.. tip::
+ When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big
+ enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the
+ pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides
+ together and leaving the allowances on the outside.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a
+narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges.
+Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece,
+pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams
+with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. tip::
+ the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled
+ seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is
+ smoother.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back
+and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a
+narrow zig zag to fell the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the
+side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the
+binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating
+part.
+
+.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag
+that catches the raw edge.
+
+Gallery
+-------
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
index 9059e89..09c1652 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
@@ -6,5 +6,6 @@
:maxdepth: 2
:caption: Contents:
+ camisole/index
liliana_nightgown/index