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Camisole
========
.. figure:: camisole.jpg
:align: center
A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric.
This is an excellent project to use leftovers.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity.
You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very
narrow.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* ~20 cm underwear elastic
* sewing thread matching the fabric.
Pattern
-------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
You need to take the following measurements:
``bust_circ`` (G04)
Bust circumference.
``waist_circ`` (G07)
Waist circumference.
``across_back_b`` (I08)
Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
``neck_circ`` (G02)
Circumference at the base of the neck.
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
Depth of the armscye.
the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`camisole.val`.
You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
Variables; the defaults are sensible.
``finished_length``
lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual
camisole will be shorter).
``strap_width``
width of the straps and of the binding for the back.
``seam_allowance``
enought for flat felled seams.
Instructions
------------
Cutting
^^^^^^^
Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given
for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric.
Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear
elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding.
.. tip::
When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big
enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the
pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides
together and leaving the allowances on the outside.
Sewing
^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a
narrow zig zag.
.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
:align: center
Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges.
Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag.
.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece,
pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag.
.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg
:align: center
Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic.
.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg
:align: center
Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams
with a narrow zig zag.
.. tip::
the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled
seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is
smoother.
.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
:align: center
Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back
and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a
narrow zig zag to fell the seam.
.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the
side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag.
.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg
:align: center
.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg
:align: center
Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the
binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating
part.
.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg
:align: center
Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag
that catches the raw edge.
Gallery
-------
|
