From 0fd9e040fb9ad277648fe3ae92c210d88a7da0f5 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2023 21:05:35 +0100 Subject: New pattern: camisole --- .../underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg | Bin 0 -> 962491 bytes .../camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1103137 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg | Bin 0 -> 873457 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1003096 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg | Bin 0 -> 728730 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg | Bin 0 -> 700763 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg | Bin 0 -> 790682 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg | Bin 0 -> 717998 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg | Bin 0 -> 754831 bytes .../underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 766086 bytes .../underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg | Bin 0 -> 856539 bytes .../underwear/camisole/camisole.val | 198 +++++++++++++++++++++ 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a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ac4e01 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val @@ -0,0 +1,198 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + Based on the close fitting body block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Camisole + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 84 + 86 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 83 + 85 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8aeae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ +Camisole +======== + +.. figure:: camisole.jpg + :align: center + +A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric. + +This is an excellent project to use leftovers. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity. + +You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very +narrow. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm underwear elastic +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + Depth of the armscye. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`camisole.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +``finished_length`` + lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual + camisole will be shorter). +``strap_width`` + width of the straps and of the binding for the back. +``seam_allowance`` + enought for flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given +for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric. + +Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear +elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding. + +.. tip:: + When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big + enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the + pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides + together and leaving the allowances on the outside. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a +narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges. +Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag. + +.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece, +pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag. + +.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic. + +.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams +with a narrow zig zag. + +.. tip:: + the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled + seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is + smoother. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back +and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a +narrow zig zag to fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the +side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the +binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating +part. + +.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag +that catches the raw edge. + +Gallery +------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 9059e89..09c1652 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,6 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + camisole/index liliana_nightgown/index -- cgit v1.2.3