summaryrefslogtreecommitdiff
path: root/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
diff options
context:
space:
mode:
authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-03-25 21:05:35 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-04-05 08:17:26 +0200
commit0fd9e040fb9ad277648fe3ae92c210d88a7da0f5 (patch)
tree18e816f83ba68ff07abdc14961377afc713ad478 /source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
parent430293826cf0b703150690c4f67a6397fa634963 (diff)
New pattern: camisole
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst')
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst156
1 files changed, 156 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e8aeae
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,156 @@
+Camisole
+========
+
+.. figure:: camisole.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric.
+
+This is an excellent project to use leftovers.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity.
+
+You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very
+narrow.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* ~20 cm underwear elastic
+* sewing thread matching the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+ Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+ Waist circumference.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+ Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+ Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+ Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21)
+ Depth of the armscye.
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`camisole.val`.
+
+You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
+Variables; the defaults are sensible.
+
+``finished_length``
+ lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual
+ camisole will be shorter).
+``strap_width``
+ width of the straps and of the binding for the back.
+``seam_allowance``
+ enought for flat felled seams.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given
+for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric.
+
+Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear
+elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding.
+
+.. tip::
+ When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big
+ enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the
+ pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides
+ together and leaving the allowances on the outside.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a
+narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges.
+Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece,
+pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams
+with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. tip::
+ the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled
+ seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is
+ smoother.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back
+and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a
+narrow zig zag to fell the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the
+side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the
+binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating
+part.
+
+.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag
+that catches the raw edge.
+
+Gallery
+-------