Jeans adaptation

1 files changed, 64 insertions, 5 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
index 1aa4e7d..bc090b7 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
@@ -6,7 +6,8 @@ Basic Jeans
 
 These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
 :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
-drafted 
+drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on
+the front.
 
 The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
 be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
@@ -65,7 +66,12 @@ Get the valentina file for the pattern,
 :download:`basic_jeans.val`.
 
 In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
-increments:
+increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position``
+(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly
+the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people
+you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance``
+and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be
+generally fine:
 
 ``waistband_depth``
    height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
@@ -77,13 +83,52 @@ increments:
    ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
 ``jeans_bottom_width``
    width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
-   straight cut on average sizes;
+   straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide
+   as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle;
+``jeans_knee_width``
+   width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem,
+   but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite
+   narrow;
 ``front_curve_distance``
    3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
 ``back_curve_distance``
    4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
 ``crutch_ease``
    5 or 6 cm;
+``hips_ease``
+   added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm;
+``pocket_opening_width``
+   how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm;
+``pocket_opening_depth``
+   how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm;
+``pocket_facing_width``
+   how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in
+   the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm;
+``pocket_facing_depth``
+   how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in
+   the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm;
+``pocket_depth``
+   how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm;
+``pocket_depth_side``
+   where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm;
+``pocket_depth_front``
+   where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm;
+``coin_pocket_width``
+   how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm;
+``coin_pocket_depth``
+   how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm;
+``fly_piece_width``
+   the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm;
+``back_pocket_width``
+   the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_depth``
+   the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_point_depth``
+   the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom
+   lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm;
+``back_pocket_raster``
+   how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom
+   lines, e.g. 0.5 cm;
 ``sewing_allowance``
    enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
 
@@ -93,8 +138,22 @@ A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
 Instructions
 ------------
 
-See the instructions for the
-Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`
+Follow the instructions for the
+Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block
+   used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`,
+   as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the
+   measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the
+   jeans pattern.
+
+When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic
+at the center back, just like the two on the side seams.
+Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two
+pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the
+straight waistband, skipping the elastic.
 
 Gallery
 -------