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Basic Jeans
===========
.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
:align: center
These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
drafted
The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
2nd layer fabric;
* 50 cm pocket fabric.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
* a suitable button;
* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
it won’t show).
Pattern
-------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
You need to take the following measurements:
``highhip_circ`` (G08)
circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
sit;
``hip_circ`` (G09)
circumference of the hips;
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
``rise_length_side`` (N08)
vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
``height_waist_back`` (A23)
height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
going over the buttocks;
the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
increments:
``waistband_depth``
height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
``waist_position``
the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
``waist_circ``
the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
``jeans_bottom_width``
width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
straight cut on average sizes;
``front_curve_distance``
3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
``back_curve_distance``
4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
``crutch_ease``
5 or 6 cm;
``sewing_allowance``
enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
Instructions
------------
See the instructions for the
Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`
Gallery
-------
|
