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Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst')
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst index 1aa4e7d..bc090b7 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -6,7 +6,8 @@ Basic Jeans These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`, -drafted +drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on +the front. The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can be adjusted to go to the natural waist. @@ -65,7 +66,12 @@ Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`basic_jeans.val`. In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following -increments: +increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position`` +(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly +the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people +you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance`` +and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be +generally fine: ``waistband_depth`` height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm; @@ -77,13 +83,52 @@ increments: ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm; ``jeans_bottom_width`` width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a - straight cut on average sizes; + straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide + as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle; +``jeans_knee_width`` + width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem, + but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite + narrow; ``front_curve_distance`` 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise; ``back_curve_distance`` 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise; ``crutch_ease`` 5 or 6 cm; +``hips_ease`` + added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; ``sewing_allowance`` enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. @@ -93,8 +138,22 @@ A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs. Instructions ------------ -See the instructions for the -Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index` +Follow the instructions for the +Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`. + +.. tip:: + + If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block + used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`, + as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the + measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the + jeans pattern. + +When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic +at the center back, just like the two on the side seams. +Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two +pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the +straight waistband, skipping the elastic. Gallery ------- |