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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-09-10 19:37:52 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-09-10 19:37:52 +0200
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+Square Hood
+===========
+
+.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+ .. contents::
+
+This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the
+finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely
+different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow
+fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom).
+
+The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time
+period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history.
+It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together:
+if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming
+by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand.
+
+It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles,
+and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of
+coverage) and few tools.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* Matching sewing thread.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the
+face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement
+and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you
+want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be
+somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width.
+
+
+Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long,
+plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an
+usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus
+the same allowance.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a
+running stitch.
+
+.. tip::
+
+ If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical
+ looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is.
+
+.. tip::
+
+ When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you
+ can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for
+ less bulk.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides
+together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long
+piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up.
+
+Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in
+half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long
+piece in such a way as to form a gore.
+
+.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square
+to the long piece
+
+.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood.
+
+.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the
+long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood
+and going up.
+
+.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before,
+and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above
+the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+See Also
+--------
+
+* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood
+ <https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_,
+ with pictures of the original and a reconstruction.