From f1aae1b54e41343fa162bce955e02c80c34e6d60 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2024 21:53:47 +0200 Subject: Started articles on two different hoods --- .../headwear/square_hood/index.rst | 52 ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 52 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst') diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..45fdbca --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,52 @@ +Square Hood +=========== + +.. figure:: square_hood.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the +finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely +different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow +fabric + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. Add 2-4 cm for a hemming allowance, this +will be the basic width. + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, and +two squares with a side of the basic width. + +Instructions +------------ + +Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, and hemstitch down. + +See Also +-------- + +* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood + `_ -- cgit v1.2.3 From 8a949e82cc75e9587a26bcea5e46ee1856f28d7d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2024 20:58:30 +0200 Subject: some hoods steps --- .../contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst | 8 ++++++++ .../contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst | 18 ++++++++++++++++-- 2 files changed, 24 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst') diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst index 5ab5b07..d449702 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst @@ -72,5 +72,13 @@ length. you may want to lay the two halves side by side and topstitch with a zig-zag stitch, but the area near the top seam will be quite fussy. +.. tip:: + + Before finishing this last seam with a knot check the hood for fit, + and if necessary adapt its lenght. + +Optional but recommended: a short distance from the end of the back +seam, make a thread bar between the two free sides. + See Also -------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst index 45fdbca..0c13f0c 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ Square Hood This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow -fabric +fabric ( Materials --------- @@ -43,7 +43,21 @@ Instructions ------------ Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, -mitering the corners, and hemstitch down. +mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a +running stitch. + +.. tip:: + + If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical + looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is. + +.. tip:: + + When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you + can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for + less bulk. + + See Also -------- -- cgit v1.2.3 From 3fc989d30ec354baa565e8e3027f54af21a18d4c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2024 18:42:30 +0200 Subject: Hood instructions --- .../headwear/square_hood/index.rst | 19 +++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 19 insertions(+) (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst') diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst index 0c13f0c..4e71307 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -57,7 +57,26 @@ running stitch. can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for less bulk. +Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides +together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long +piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. +Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in +half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long +piece in such a way as to form a gore. + +Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square +to the long piece + +and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. + +Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the +long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood +and going up. + +Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, +and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above +the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. See Also -------- -- cgit v1.2.3 From 78048c9a63132fdc313a36b6b2c9860584ead23d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2024 19:35:35 +0200 Subject: Finished instructions for the Square Hood --- .../headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1067517 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1144767 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1206529 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1292715 bytes .../square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1094801 bytes .../square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1273934 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1099522 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/index.rst | 53 +++++++++++++++++---- .../headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 867720 bytes 9 files changed, 45 insertions(+), 8 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst') diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ab85cd Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e1f46b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5883270 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbf3f7d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc7f2d4 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5847069 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae2a6e4 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst index 4e71307..95fe892 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Square Hood =========== -.. figure:: square_hood.jpg +.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg :align: center .. only:: html @@ -11,8 +11,18 @@ Square Hood This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow -fabric ( - +fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). + +The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time +period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. +It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: +if you don't care about visibile machine stitches you may do the hemming +by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. + +It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, +and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of +coverage) and few tools. + Materials --------- @@ -33,15 +43,20 @@ Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be -somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. Add 2-4 cm for a hemming allowance, this -will be the basic width. +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width. -Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, and -two squares with a side of the basic width. + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, +plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an +usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus +the same allowance. Instructions ------------ +.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg + :align: center + Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a running stitch. @@ -57,6 +72,9 @@ running stitch. can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for less bulk. +.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. @@ -65,21 +83,40 @@ Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long piece in such a way as to form a gore. +.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square to the long piece +.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg + :align: center + and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. +.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood and going up. +.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: flannell_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + See Also -------- * `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood - `_ + `_, + with pictures of the original and a reconstruction. diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..28d4fae Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg differ -- cgit v1.2.3 From 744aa1c21ea6ce9cd1346fa4bc797b6399eaf764 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2024 19:37:38 +0200 Subject: Typos --- .../contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst | 2 +- .../headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1099522 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg | Bin 1099522 -> 0 bytes .../headwear/square_hood/index.rst | 4 ++-- 4 files changed, 3 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg delete mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst') diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst index d363e2e..60e9481 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst @@ -88,7 +88,7 @@ length. .. tip:: Before finishing this last seam with a knot check the hood for fit, - and if necessary adapt its lenght. + and if necessary adapt its length. .. figure:: 0105-thread_bar.jpg :align: center diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae2a6e4 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index ae2a6e4..0000000 Binary files a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannell_hood_front.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst index 95fe892..bae4d70 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: -if you don't care about visibile machine stitches you may do the hemming +if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, @@ -111,7 +111,7 @@ the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. Gallery ------- -.. figure:: flannell_hood_front.jpg +.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg :align: center See Also -- cgit v1.2.3