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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bae4d70 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,122 @@ +Square Hood +=========== + +.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the +finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely +different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow +fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). + +The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time +period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. +It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: +if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming +by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. + +It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, +and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of +coverage) and few tools. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width. + + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, +plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an +usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus +the same allowance. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a +running stitch. + +.. tip:: + + If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical + looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is. + +.. tip:: + + When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you + can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for + less bulk. + +.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides +together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long +piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. + +Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in +half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long +piece in such a way as to form a gore. + +.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square +to the long piece + +.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. + +.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the +long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood +and going up. + +.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, +and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above +the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood + <https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_, + with pictures of the original and a reconstruction. |