Combinations: more improvements

1 files changed, 138 insertions, 101 deletions

diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
index 86fffc4..d78a076 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
@@ -6,8 +6,8 @@
     <description/>
     <notes/>
     <patternName>Corset cover + petticoat</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
-    <company></company>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
     <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
         <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
@@ -18,20 +18,23 @@
     </patternLabel>
     <measurements>../measurements.vit</measurements>
     <increments>
-        <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 30" name="#full_length"/>
+        <increment description="full length of the garment, excluding the ruffle" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 50" name="#full_length"/>
         <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/>
         <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/>
-        <increment formula="1" name="#ease"/>
+        <increment formula="1.5" name="#ease"/>
         <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/>
         <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
         <increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/>
         <increment formula="2" name="#stand_width"/>
-        <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips" name="#front_opening"/>
+        <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips / 2" name="#front_opening"/>
         <increment formula="200" name="#hem_circumference"/>
-        <increment formula="15" name="#ruffle_height"/>
+        <increment formula="20" name="#ruffle_height"/>
         <increment formula="5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_height"/>
         <increment formula="1.5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_density"/>
         <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/>
+        <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front" formula="12" name="#neckline_depth_front"/>
+        <increment description="full width of the neckline" formula="24" name="#neckline_width"/>
+        <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back" formula="2" name="#neckline_depth_back"/>
     </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
     <draw name="pattern">
@@ -136,46 +139,58 @@
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@@ -184,12 +199,12 @@
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@@ -198,78 +213,94 @@
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