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-rw-r--r--cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val239
1 files changed, 138 insertions, 101 deletions
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
index 86fffc4..d78a076 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val
@@ -6,8 +6,8 @@
<description/>
<notes/>
<patternName>Corset cover + petticoat</patternName>
- <patternNumber></patternNumber>
- <company></company>
+ <patternNumber/>
+ <company/>
<patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
<line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
<line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
@@ -18,20 +18,23 @@
</patternLabel>
<measurements>../measurements.vit</measurements>
<increments>
- <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 30" name="#full_length"/>
+ <increment description="full length of the garment, excluding the ruffle" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 50" name="#full_length"/>
<increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/>
<increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/>
- <increment formula="1" name="#ease"/>
+ <increment formula="1.5" name="#ease"/>
<increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/>
<increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
<increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/>
<increment formula="2" name="#stand_width"/>
- <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips" name="#front_opening"/>
+ <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips / 2" name="#front_opening"/>
<increment formula="200" name="#hem_circumference"/>
- <increment formula="15" name="#ruffle_height"/>
+ <increment formula="20" name="#ruffle_height"/>
<increment formula="5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_height"/>
<increment formula="1.5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_density"/>
<increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/>
+ <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front" formula="12" name="#neckline_depth_front"/>
+ <increment description="full width of the neckline" formula="24" name="#neckline_width"/>
+ <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back" formula="2" name="#neckline_depth_back"/>
</increments>
<previewCalculations/>
<draw name="pattern">
@@ -136,46 +139,58 @@
<point firstPoint="327" id="328" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A33" secondPoint="318" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
<point firstPoint="316" id="339" length="#stand_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.9525" my="-0.9525" name="A35" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point angle="0" firstPoint="316" id="340" length="#stand_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.14854" my="-1.16417" name="A42" secondPoint="339" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="24" id="344" length="#neckline_depth_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A44" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A44_A45 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_A44_A45" color="black" duplicate="1" id="350" length1="6" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="346" point4="344" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <line firstPoint="55" id="356" lineColor="black" secondPoint="279" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <line firstPoint="53" id="357" lineColor="black" secondPoint="283" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <line firstPoint="40" id="358" lineColor="black" secondPoint="287" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="56" id="359" length="Line_A11q_A31" lineColor="black" mx="1.34927" my="-3.53511" name="A47" secondPoint="277" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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</calculation>
<modeling>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="196" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
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<nodes>
<node idObject="191" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="192" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -184,12 +199,12 @@
<node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="202" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="197" idObject="83" inUse="true" mx="-2.30046" my="-1.97579" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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<nodes>
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@@ -198,78 +213,94 @@
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="343" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="placket_cut" type="2" typeLine="hair" visible="1">
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<nodes>
<node idObject="341" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="342" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
+ <spline id="352" idObject="349" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="353" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="square_neckline" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="352" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ <spline id="354" idObject="350" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="355" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="v_neckline" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="354" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ <point id="361" idObject="359" inUse="true" mx="1.34927" my="-3.53511" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="362" idObject="360" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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+ <point id="366" idObject="365" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
</modeling>
<details>
<detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="143" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{5199b94b-388e-482c-9910-4b3d08a6e3e3}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance">
@@ -292,7 +323,8 @@
<node idObject="135" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
<node idObject="136" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="289" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="290" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node excluded="true" idObject="290" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="366" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="142" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
<iPaths>
@@ -316,7 +348,8 @@
<node idObject="146" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="147" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="285" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node excluded="true" idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="364" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="153" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="154" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
<node idObject="155" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -343,7 +376,8 @@
<node idObject="160" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="281" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="282" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node excluded="true" idObject="282" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="362" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="167" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
<iPaths>
@@ -369,7 +403,8 @@
<node after="0" idObject="174" type="NodePoint"/>
<node after="0" before="0" idObject="317" manualPassmarkLength="true" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLength="1" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
<node before="0" idObject="313" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="278" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node excluded="true" idObject="278" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="361" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="181" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="182" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="183" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
@@ -381,6 +416,8 @@
<record path="202"/>
<record path="214"/>
<record path="343"/>
+ <record path="353"/>
+ <record path="355"/>
</iPaths>
<pins>
<record>299</record>