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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2019-01-14 09:41:11 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2019-01-14 09:41:11 +0100
commit3541d45af83eddb458d98f894273f388b0c3bfd2 (patch)
tree044ce27d8ff706203c7559a97b6ed14d874647e8 /american_system_dressmaking
parent32ac791e7a461faefb3d7bc9f598a7c7d597bcb7 (diff)
Readme for the Americal System of Dressmaking
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+************************************
+ The American System of Dressmaking
+************************************
+
+The blocks in this directory have been drawn following the instructions
+on `The American System of Dressmaking`_ by miss Pearl Merwin, published
+in 1909.
+
+.. _`The American System of Dressmaking`: https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/n3
+
+Measurements
+============
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+Waist
+-----
+
+Measurements used for the waist block (pages 20/21).
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| American System | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1. Neck measure | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2. Bust measure | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3. Waist measure | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4. Front measure | P03 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5. Back measure | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6. Chest measure | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7. Width of back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8. Under arm measure | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9. Armhole measure | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10. Shoulder measure | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Additional measures used in the block and not listed on those pages are:
+
+H37 ``shoulder_slope_neck_side_length``
+ 2.5 - 5 cm (shoulder drop);
+G34 ``neck_arc_half_b``
+ 6 cm if the neck (G01) is between 30 and 38 cm.
+
+Sleeve
+------
+
+Measurements used for the sleeve (pages 53-54).
+
+.. list-table::
+ :header-rows: 1
+
+ * - American system
+ -
+ - valentina
+ * - 1. Length of sleeve
+ - 014
+ - ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent``
+ * - 2. Length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow
+ - 014 - L03
+ - (as above) - ``arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent``
+ * - 3. Inside measure from armhole to wrist
+ - L08
+ - ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``
+ * - 4. Armhole measure
+ - L19
+ - ``armscye_circ``
+ * - 5. Elbow measure
+ - L13
+ - ``arm_elbow_circ``
+ * - 6. Hand measure
+ - D05
+ - hand_circ
+
+Skirt
+-----
+
+Measurements used for the skirt (pages 133-134).
+
+Here the book does not give names to the measurements, but refers to the
+lines on figures 1 and 2 on pages 28 and 29.
+
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| American System | Valentina |
++=================+=====+========================+
+| 1. Line 3 | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| 2. Line 14 | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| 3. | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| 4. Line 15 | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| 5. Line 16 | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+| 6. Line 17 | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
++-----------------+-----+------------------------+
+