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diff --git a/american_system_dressmaking/README.rst b/american_system_dressmaking/README.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..debe00b --- /dev/null +++ b/american_system_dressmaking/README.rst @@ -0,0 +1,108 @@ +************************************ + The American System of Dressmaking +************************************ + +The blocks in this directory have been drawn following the instructions +on `The American System of Dressmaking`_ by miss Pearl Merwin, published +in 1909. + +.. _`The American System of Dressmaking`: https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/n3 + +Measurements +============ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +Waist +----- + +Measurements used for the waist block (pages 20/21). + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1. Neck measure | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2. Bust measure | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3. Waist measure | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4. Front measure | P03 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5. Back measure | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6. Chest measure | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7. Width of back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8. Under arm measure | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9. Armhole measure | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10. Shoulder measure | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Additional measures used in the block and not listed on those pages are: + +H37 ``shoulder_slope_neck_side_length`` + 2.5 - 5 cm (shoulder drop); +G34 ``neck_arc_half_b`` + 6 cm if the neck (G01) is between 30 and 38 cm. + +Sleeve +------ + +Measurements used for the sleeve (pages 53-54). + +.. list-table:: + :header-rows: 1 + + * - American system + - + - valentina + * - 1. Length of sleeve + - 014 + - ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` + * - 2. Length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow + - 014 - L03 + - (as above) - ``arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent`` + * - 3. Inside measure from armhole to wrist + - L08 + - ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` + * - 4. Armhole measure + - L19 + - ``armscye_circ`` + * - 5. Elbow measure + - L13 + - ``arm_elbow_circ`` + * - 6. Hand measure + - D05 + - hand_circ + +Skirt +----- + +Measurements used for the skirt (pages 133-134). + +Here the book does not give names to the measurements, but refers to the +lines on figures 1 and 2 on pages 28 and 29. + ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++=================+=====+========================+ +| 1. Line 3 | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| 2. Line 14 | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| 3. | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| 4. Line 15 | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| 5. Line 16 | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ +| 6. Line 17 | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++-----------------+-----+------------------------+ + |