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|
The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments
==============================================================
This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`.
At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they
have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances
from Valentina used instead.
All measurements have also been converted to metric.
Measurements
------------
The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book.
The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in
these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book
itself.
Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle
Skirts and Trousers
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Riding Habits etc.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Blocks
------
S. B. tight-fitting Jacket
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate
21.
* :download:`ladies_jacket.val`
Skirt
^^^^^
Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38.
* :download:`foundation_skirt.val`
|
