summaryrefslogtreecommitdiff
path: root/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst
diff options
context:
space:
mode:
authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-01-25 13:13:57 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-01-25 13:13:57 +0100
commit8c9d9849aadd860721ac1fe8aa7b9a39f504373e (patch)
tree7dff5a80add63d7766eaa65e9a2fc823b168e7e0 /source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst
parent34f48a79643e7f94e9d8f5d1f648e03209f645ec (diff)
Migrated the blocks based on Cutter's Practical Guide from another repo
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst')
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst117
1 files changed, 117 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dec05d9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,117 @@
+The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments
+==============================================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`.
+
+At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they
+have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances
+from Valentina used instead.
+
+All measurements have also been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book
+itself.
+
+Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c.
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle
+
+Skirts and Trousers
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Riding Habits etc.
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
+S. B. tight-fitting Jacket
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate
+21.
+
+* :download:`ladies_jacket.val`
+
+Skirt
+^^^^^
+
+Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38.
+
+* :download:`foundation_skirt.val`
+
+