path: root/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst

1880 Shirt
==========

.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg
   :align: center

A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's
treasury of domestic information
<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
from 1880.

While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern
instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual
for a modern pattern.

Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a
mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may
want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece.

This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.

I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
be hand sewn in the home, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home
were most definitely a thing (and is mentioned in a later chapter of the
book).

If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything
else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to
sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the
instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for
historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however,
unless that's not a concern.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional).

Notions
^^^^^^^

* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
* 5 or more small buttons.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

You need to take the following measurements:

``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
   ;
``neck_circ`` (G02)
   ;
``bust_circ`` (G04)
   ;
``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
   ;
``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
   ;
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
   ;
``shoulder_length`` (I01)
   ;
``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
   ;
``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
   ;
``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
   ;

the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`.

You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible,
but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits
nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:

``shirt_length_back``
   usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``;
``shirt_length_front``
   a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
``shirt_width``
   the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical),
   and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine;
``front_slit_length``
   the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
   be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
``button_placket_width``
   the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste;
``ease``
   the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two
   variables;
``front_slit_width``
   the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at
   least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
   pleated;
``front_gathers_width``
   the final width to which the material in the front slit is gathered:
   at least the width of the button placket;
``front_band_height``
   the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
   taste;
``yoke_depth``
   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends, to taste;
``cuff_length``
   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste;
``sleeve_length``
   length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
   the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
   be;
``sleeve_width``
   the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this
   is often half the ``shirt_width``;
``sleeve_wrist_circumference``
   the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
   gathering it into the cuff;
``sleeve_slit``
   the length of the slit at the sleeve: 6 cm or to taste;
``collar_band_height``
   the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2
   cm is usually fine;
``sewing_allowance``
   the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
   that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
   cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin
   fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit
   more.

The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are
used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width``
from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
ignore them.

The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw
mode as follows:

back:
   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as
   ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1);
front:
   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as
   ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8);
sleeves:
   the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of
   ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of
   ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds
   to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the
   other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a
   rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as
   ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained
   below.

This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with
detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other
source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as
used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band.

Instructions
------------

Pattern adjustments
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to
it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck
and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving
the space for the button placket.

You may also want to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.

Cutting
^^^^^^^

.. tip::

   While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular
   pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip
   them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread.

Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.

If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
seaming allowance.

.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
   :align: center

If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the
rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center
and bast them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a
– g and h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
fabric along the fold.

.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
   :align: center

After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you
will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to
complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
for it not to be a problem.

.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg
   :align: center

If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above
schematic.

.. figure:: 01-cutting_tongue.jpg
   :align: center

   The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when
   cutting the shoulder piece.

Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.

If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in
interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar
band.

Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
reinforcement patches.

Collar and Cuffs
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

.. figure:: 02-sewn_collar.jpg
   :align: center

Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.

.. figure:: 03-pressing_seams_collar.jpg
   :align: center

Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.

.. note::

   If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its
   construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or
   two layers of interfacing.

Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top,
backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium),
leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.

Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.

Front
^^^^^

Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front.

On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice
towards the front.

.. note::

   This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket,
   and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct
   right or wrong side.

   If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you
   can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in
   place instead of applique stitching it.

Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing
outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half
the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket
(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other).  Overlap the
pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams.

Press everything.

Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.

Applique stitch the plackets over the seam of the first pleat.

On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
each edge.

Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.

With right sides facing backstitch all around the tongue except for the
top, press, trim the corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and
press again.

Press the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.

Sew the tongue to the center bottom of one of the bands

Pin that band on top of the front so that it covers the slit, applique
stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the bottom edge over
the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and sewing to the
underside of the tongue when you reach it.

Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so
that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased.

Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back,
then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on
the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and
remove the collar from the assembly.

Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two
shoulders. Press up.

.. note::

   This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original
   instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back
   first.

   This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it
   easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit.

Back
^^^^

Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top
edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.

Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part should become and
how much material should be cut from the shoulder side for the armhole.
Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case you want to use this
pattern again.

Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the
shoulder piece. Press also the allowance of the same shoulder piece,
pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.

Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
back of the shirt.

Sleeves
^^^^^^^

Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning
the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve.

Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the
gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and
hemstitch it to the sleeve.

Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
the gusset and the sleeve.

Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one
seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch, fold the
double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch it to the
sleeve. Repeat the same with the other sleeve, taking care do make it
symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the opposite direction).

Cut the slit one third of the way in, towards the front of the sleeve,
fold down the edges twice and hem stitch them down.

From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
the top of the slit on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
outside and a hemstitch on the inside.

Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather
it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the
edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the
wrong side.

Assembly of the body
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Right sides together, align the back and front so that the hem is 8–10
cm longer in the back (as decided when cutting) and mark a point 8–10 cm
from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end.

Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4
cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end
of the side seam.

Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back
is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double
allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch.

Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice,
mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side
seam, and hemstitch.

.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:

Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a
reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt.
Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the
sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye,
starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the
excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece.

Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again.

When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper
and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front
and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern.

Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end,
save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another
shirt in this size.

Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on
both sides of the shirt.

Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the
points just marked.

.. tip::

   Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and
   quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and
   sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance.

Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the
edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on
the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the
ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam
allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder
piece, catching each gather.

Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of
fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it
towards the body.

.. note::

   Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
   instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming
   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you
   want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and
   before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing,
   backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge,
   press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the
   straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the
   previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part
   catching each gather with a stitch.

From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on
the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the
bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
outside and a hemstitch on the inside.

Finishing
^^^^^^^^^

Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more
button and buttonholes on the front placket.

Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
half dozen :)