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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 23 |
1 files changed, 12 insertions, 11 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 6b81271..da03f2c 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -101,7 +101,8 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; ``shirt_width`` the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the - width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical); + width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical), + and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine; ``front_slit_length`` the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement @@ -203,9 +204,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with single (for -the original felled seam) or double (for french seaming) seaming -allowance. +lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double +seaming allowance. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg :align: center @@ -467,13 +467,14 @@ towards the body. Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming - it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (this is - already marked in the valentina pattern), put the sleeve in with - wrong sides facing, backstitch at a bit less than the sewing - allowance from the edge, press; turn the sleeve inside out, right - sides facing, backstitch the straight part at a bit more than the - sewing allowance from the previous seam, turn it right side out and - hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch. + it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you + want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and + before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, + backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, + press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the + straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the + previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part + catching each gather with a stitch. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the |