Basic Jeans
===========

.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
   :align: center

These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
drafted 

The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
be adjusted to go to the natural waist.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
  heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
  2nd layer fabric;
* 50 cm pocket fabric.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
* a suitable button;
* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
  it won’t show).

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.

You need to take the following measurements:

``highhip_circ`` (G08)
   circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
   sit;
``hip_circ`` (G09)
   circumference of the hips;
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
   vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
``rise_length_side`` (N08)
   vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
``height_waist_back`` (A23)
   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
   going over the buttocks;

the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`basic_jeans.val`.

In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
increments:

``waistband_depth``
   height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
``waist_position``
   the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
   the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
``waist_circ``
   the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
   ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
``jeans_bottom_width``
   width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
   straight cut on average sizes;
``front_curve_distance``
   3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
``back_curve_distance``
   4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
``crutch_ease``
   5 or 6 cm;
``sewing_allowance``
   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.

After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.

Instructions
------------

See the instructions for the
Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`

Gallery
-------