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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/underwear')
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df3ae69 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>1838 drawers</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="half the width of the fabric for modern wide fabric, the full width for historical ones (should be around 80 cm)" formula="80" name="#fabric_width"/> + <increment formula="min(#fabric_width;hip_circ)" name="#total_width"/> + <increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/> + <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/> + <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/> + <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="drawers"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="#waist_drop" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="F" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="5" length="#total_width / 2 - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Z" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="6" length="#total_width / 14 * 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="S" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="7" length="#total_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="8" length="#leg_hem_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="9" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="10" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="11" length="#waistband_lenght" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="12" length="#waistband_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="13" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="14" length="waist_circ" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W4" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="14" id="15" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W5" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="16" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="17" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="18" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="19" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="20" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="21" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="22" idObject="7" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="24" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="25" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="30" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="31" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="overlap_line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="32" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="33" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>33</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="31"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + </details> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..623dcc4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm + wide. + +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + +.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're + cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that +the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running +backstich. + +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of +the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. + +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, +sew with a hemming stitch. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the +short ends, press and turn inside out. + +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. + +.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center + of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness + is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the + body. + +Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big +needle or a pin. + +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends +by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter +points. + +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, +matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and +overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the +waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the +back. + +.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet + matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg, + or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13865/drawers-underpants-unknown/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git 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instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide or more for bigger sizes. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. + +Note that the measurements 2 and 3 given for the shoulder straps result +in straps that look narrower than the one in the technical image, so you +way want to add a cm or two to both of them. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. + +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just +the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. + +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric, +side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow. + +If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them +horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to +cut them vertically. + +Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and +bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. + +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. + +.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be + cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the + latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave + more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + +Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are +perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the +middle of the side seam, open it again. + +Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four +edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and +cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the +body. + +.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle + of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Gores +^^^^^ + +Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which +side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: + +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it +so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to +the gore from the wrong side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +seam. + +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + +Bosom Gores +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped +slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the +bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). + +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side +by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about +one allowance wide. + +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place +and applique-stitch from the right side + +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitch from the wrong side. + +Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the +wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. + +Gussets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + +Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, hemstitch. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. + +Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, +press. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and +applique stitch the folded edge. + +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + +Attaching the sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, +pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides +together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short +edges. + +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the +shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and +whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. + +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out. + +Hem +^^^ + +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. + +Variants +-------- + +Front Ruffle +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as +the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm +high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. + +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index c266de8..9a7e7e8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -9,4 +9,7 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index + early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index + 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index + 1838_drawers/index |
