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b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2da25e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +Roll Top Backpack +================= + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple backpack with a roll top closure. + +The pictures show this backpack as being sewn completely by hand: this +was because of some specific constraints of the project (mentioned in +the blog post), and it shows that MYOG as a hobby can be accessible even +when lacking a sewing machine. + +Most of the constructions could of course be done by machine, but +in that case I think it would be easier to bind the raw edges instead of +felling them, and using the variant with box corners instead of a +separate bottom. Attaching the leather-ish protection to the bottom +needs to be done by hand, however. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 1 m outer fabric (e.g. waxed canvas); +* 1 m lining fabric (e.g. lighter canvas); +* 30 cm leather-like material for reinforcements. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2.1 m 25 mm webbing; +* 1.6 m 50 mm webbing; +* 4 50 mm D-rings; +* 2 25 mm D-rings; +* glue suitable for the leather-like material; +* strong sewing thread; + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern from :download:`roll_top_backpack.val`. + +The file is set up to only print the pattern pieces for the bottom, +strap support and webbing cover, also available as a tiled PDF in A4 +format: :download:`roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf`; everything else are just +rectangles, and their measurements can be taken from the Variables Table +in valentina. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as indicated on the patter, either the basic pieces or +the ``bc`` variants if making the `Box Corners`_ variant. + +Back preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: Optionally add a molle pattern to the back, to be able to + attach some removable padding. + + .. figure:: 0200-molle_back.jpg + :align: center + + Cut 7 pieces of 25 mm webbing as wide as the back (including + allowances); starting 6.5 cm from the base put them at one webbing + width of distance from each other over the bottom back piece. + + Mark a line in the center, and lines at every 4 cm on each distance, and + sew, backstitching over each piece. + + If desired, sew similar pieces of webbing to the lower part of the + other panels. + +.. figure:: 0201-webbing_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 2 pieces of 50 mm webbing 80 cm long, fold them in half and slide +two wide D-rings in each of them. Sew them in place as close to the +D-ring as possible. + +.. figure:: 0202-whipstitch_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch or topstitch the edges of the webbing, making them +a single strap of double thickness. + +.. figure:: 0203-sewing_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the webbing pieces to the allowance at the top of the bottom back +piece, at 4 cm from the center. + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_closure_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, sew it to the allowance at the +top of the bottom back piece, right at the center. + +.. figure:: 0205-strap_support_preparation.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, put them on each strap +support so that one edge goes from one corner to the middle of the long +side and there are 5 cm of webbing beyond the long side. + +.. figure:: 0206-strap_support_sewing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the strap support in half, right sides facing, and sew at 1 cm from +the long edge. + +.. figure:: 0207-strap_support_topstitching.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, topstitch all around the webbing. + +.. figure:: 0208-attaching_strap_support.jpg + :align: center + +Put the strap support on top of the bottom back, 5 cm from the bottom, +with the webbing facing up, and sew in the allowance. + +Trim the excess webbing. + +.. figure:: 0209-sewing_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top back piece over the bottom back and +sew. Press the allowances up. + +Front preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-preparing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 10 cm of 25 mm webbing, put two D-rings in it, fold it in half and +sew as close to the rings as possible. + +.. figure:: 0302-whipstitching_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch the two sides. + +.. figure:: 0303-front_closure_placement.jpg + :align: center + +Put it in the center of the front piece, in such a way that the top +of the D-rings aligns just below the level of the seam in the back. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Sew a 2 cm × 2 cm square at the bottom of the webbing, plus diagonals +for strength. + +.. figure:: 0305-webbing_cover_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the webbing cover so that it covers the square seam and the raw ends +of the webbing, and appliquestitch it in place. + +Structure +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-back_over_back_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back over the back lining, wrong sides together, aligning it at +the bottom edge, centering it between the side edges so that there is 1 +cm of lining excess on each side, and making sure that at the top the +back is 2 cm longer than the lining. + +.. figure:: 0402-side_and_lining_over_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put one side lining on top of one side, aligned at the bottom and with 2 +cm of excess side compared to the lining. +Put the side on top of the back, outer / fabric sides together, aligning +the side of the side with that of the back outer. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam at 2 cm from the back lining edge (i.e. 1 cm from +every other edge). + +.. figure:: 0404-felling_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press the allowance of the back lining in +half, press the seam towards the side and fell. + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0405-sewing_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front on top of one side, right sides together and aligned at +the bottom and side edge, put the front lining on top of everything, +with right side on top, and aligned at the bottom and so that there is 1 +cm of excess of lining on the side. Sew at 2 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0406-felling_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Fell the seam. + +.. tip:: you can slide a metal ruler between the side and the side + lining to help you fell the seam without catching the outer fabric. + +.. figure:: 0407-aligning_other_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat for the other side of the front. + +.. figure:: 0410-attaching_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +With the body still inside out, put the outer base on the base lining, +wrong sides together, so that the outer is centered on the lining. +Starting from the corners put the base in the body, aligning the edges of +the body with the edge of the outer base and taking care to keep the +corners neat. Sew at 2 cm from the base lining edge. + +.. figure:: 0411-felling_base.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam towards the sides and fell, trying to fold the corners +as neatly as you can. + +.. figure:: 0412-hemming_top_opening.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the fabric at the top towards the lining, twice, forming a +hem, hemstitch it in place. + +Reinforcements +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Cut three rectangular pieces of reinforcement material, 3 cm wide and 2 +cm tall, fold them in half and sew them over the end of the straps. + +.. figure:: 0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the bottom piece F out of reinforcement material, glue the side tabs +closed to form a parallelepipedal open on the top. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Applique-stitch the reinforcement to the bottom of the backpack, making +sure to only catch the fabric and not the lining. + +.. tip:: depending on the material this reinforcement could be glued to + the backpack instead of being sewn, but this would make it harder to + change it later in case it was ruined from use. + +Variants +-------- + +Bound raw edges +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of flat-felling the raw edges, you can cut every piece with the +same sewing allowance of 1 cm, sew the pieces as instructed and then +bind the raw edges with bias or straight tape. + +Box corners +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a separate bottom you can make the front and back pieces +longer and add a seam at the center of the bottom; this will make the +bottom of the pack a bit less structured, but can be significantly +easier to sew. + +To do so, instead of pieces A, A1, B and D1 cut the pieces Abc, A1bc, +Bbc and D1bd, and skip piece E and E1. + +Sew the sides of the backpack as instructed above, aligning the pieces +from the top, when the instructions + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_back.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `The blog post where I describe planning and making this backpack + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/07/25-roll_top_backpack_handsewn/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff7e3c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfad8cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val @@ -0,0 +1,418 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Roll top backpack</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <customer/> + <birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate> + <email/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="width: %finalMeasurement_width%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="base height: %finalMeasurement_base_height%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="total height: %finalMeasurement_total_height%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="depth: %finalMeasurement_depth%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="height of bottom: %finalMeasurement_bottom_height%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#width" name="width"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#base_height" name="base_height"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#base_height + #top_height" name="total_height"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#depth" name="depth"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#bottom_height" name="bottom_height"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements/> + <increments> + <increment formula="30" name="#width"/> + <increment formula="42" name="#base_height"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#depth"/> + <increment formula="#depth * 3" name="#top_height"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#bottom_height"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#strap_triangle"/> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#webbing"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="backpack"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#base_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="2" id="3" length="#top_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="4" length="#width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="5" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="6" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="7" length="#depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" 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italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-347.972" my="-2649.44" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node after="0" idObject="130" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0" idObject="131" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="132" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="133" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a34ddd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4fe3d3c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst index 3c51e53..8944d51 100644 --- a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst @@ -84,7 +84,8 @@ PDF or valentina layout: * 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm :download:`20x20.pdf` :download:`20x20_layout.vlt`; * 10 cm × 10 cm × 1.5 cm, using just the zipper for the sides - :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`; + :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`: requires a piece + of zipper 32.5 cm long; * to measure as a carrying case for the Pyra_ handheld :download:`pyra_case.pdf` :download:`pyra_case_layout.vlt`. diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 74a63ef..07c6b3e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -17,8 +17,9 @@ author = {Workwoman}, title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing…}, publisher = {}, - year = {1840}, + year = {1838}, url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00hale", + note = {See also https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog for another scan of the same book.}, } @Book{1896:elements author = {Davis, Jeanette E}, diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2be7e5a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ded035 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e064323 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba9e55d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd96da5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce54f26 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 336a354..997f9a8 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. -This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +This is a transitional pattern between the shirts completely made from rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the more structured shirts of the 20th century. @@ -510,7 +510,7 @@ hem stitch them down. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit -edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +edges are adjacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a hemstitch on the inside. @@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, -starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughly gathering the excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. @@ -680,7 +680,7 @@ Flat front :align: center To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front -that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_excess`` in the pattern and as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` @@ -697,6 +697,63 @@ left. Continue working the rest of the shirt. +Horizontal Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These instructions are for a shirt with an horizontal opening at the +yoke, closed with snaps, rather than a slit; they have no basis on any +historical source, but are useful to make a shirt for modern wear with +fancy fabric manipulation on the front. + +Skip most of the instructions on preparing the front, sewing just the +two halves of the yoke pieces. + +.. figure:: 0901-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it +between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck. + +.. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Roll up the back burrito style between the yoke pieces, and right sides +together sew the front seams of the yoke. + +.. figure:: 0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of twill tape about 2.5 cm longer than the front seams of +the yoke, insert them in the seam you've just sewed and sew them to the +outer side of the yoke with a spaced backstitch. + +Sew the collar to the yoke as per the regular instructions, inserting +the excess of tape into the overlap of the collar. + +.. figure:: 0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar close, and cut a piece of twill tape as long as the front of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0905-snaps.jpg + :align: center + +Sew three snaps per side to the front of the yoke, over the +reinforcement tape, and to the tape you've just cut, making sure that +they are aligned. + +.. figure:: 0906-sewing_front.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top of the front, and gather or otherwise manipulate its width +into the length of the tape, making sure to leave space on the sides to +cut away the armscyes; hemstitch the tape to the front just below +the hem. + +Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the +sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular +instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ 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<increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/> + <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/> + <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/> + <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="drawers"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" 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forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>33</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="31"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + </details> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..623dcc4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm + wide. + +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + +.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're + cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that +the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running +backstich. + +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of +the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. + +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, +sew with a hemming stitch. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the +short ends, press and turn inside out. + +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. + +.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center + of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness + is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the + body. + +Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big +needle or a pin. + +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends +by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter +points. + +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, +matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and +overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the +waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the +back. + +.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet + matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg, + or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13865/drawers-underpants-unknown/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git 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instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide or more for bigger sizes. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. + +Note that the measurements 2 and 3 given for the shoulder straps result +in straps that look narrower than the one in the technical image, so you +way want to add a cm or two to both of them. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. + +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just +the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. + +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric, +side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow. + +If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them +horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to +cut them vertically. + +Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and +bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. + +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. + +.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be + cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the + latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave + more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + +Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are +perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the +middle of the side seam, open it again. + +Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four +edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and +cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the +body. + +.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle + of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Gores +^^^^^ + +Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which +side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: + +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it +so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to +the gore from the wrong side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +seam. + +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + +Bosom Gores +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped +slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the +bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). + +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side +by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about +one allowance wide. + +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place +and applique-stitch from the right side + +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitch from the wrong side. + +Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the +wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. + +Gussets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + +Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, hemstitch. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. + +Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, +press. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and +applique stitch the folded edge. + +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + +Attaching the sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, +pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides +together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short +edges. + +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the +shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and +whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. + +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out. + +Hem +^^^ + +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. + +Variants +-------- + +Front Ruffle +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as +the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm +high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. + +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index c266de8..9a7e7e8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -9,4 +9,7 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index + early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index + 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index + 1838_drawers/index |
