diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers')
3 files changed, 233 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df3ae69 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>1838 drawers</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="half the width of the fabric for modern wide fabric, the full width for historical ones (should be around 80 cm)" formula="80" name="#fabric_width"/> + <increment formula="min(#fabric_width;hip_circ)" name="#total_width"/> + <increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/> + <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/> + <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/> + <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="drawers"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="#waist_drop" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="F" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="5" length="#total_width / 2 - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Z" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="6" length="#total_width / 14 * 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="S" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="7" length="#total_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="8" length="#leg_hem_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="9" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="10" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="11" length="#waistband_lenght" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="12" length="#waistband_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="13" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="14" length="waist_circ" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W4" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="14" id="15" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W5" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="16" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="17" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="18" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="19" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="20" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="21" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="22" idObject="7" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="24" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="25" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="30" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="31" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="overlap_line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="32" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="33" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>33</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="31"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + </details> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e5007e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,99 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to +*twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + + +Variants +-------- + + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> |