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1838 Drawers
============
.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg
:align: center
.. only:: html
.. contents::
:cite:`1838:workwoman`
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm
wide.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
Pattern
-------
:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one
size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*;
they are, converted to cm:
====== ==
meas cm
====== ==
width 80
length 86
A to B 23
B to C 46
C to G 40
C to E 40
F to G 6
F to S 29
====== ==
For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the
distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and
allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern)
fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the
hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to
*twice* the circumference of the hips).
For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between
the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested
measurements, and scale everything else in proportion.
For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for
the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe
3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back.
There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these
calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding
:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are
included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
and measuring them directly on the fabric.
Instructions
------------
Cutting
^^^^^^^
Finishing
^^^^^^^^^
Variants
--------
Gallery
-------
See also
--------
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797
|
