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+1838 Drawers
+============
+
+.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of
+:cite:`1838:workwoman`.
+
+It is a simple, serviceable garment.
+
+Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing,
+but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by
+hand or topstitched by machine.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm
+  wide.
+
+If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the
+hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric
+will be required.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one
+size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*;
+they are, converted to cm:
+
+
+======  ==
+meas    cm
+======  ==
+width   80
+length  86
+A to B  23
+B to C  46
+C to G  40
+C to E  40
+F to G   6
+F to S  29
+======  ==
+
+For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the
+distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and
+allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern)
+fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the
+hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the
+drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips).
+
+For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between
+the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested
+measurements, and scale everything else in proportion.
+
+For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for
+the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe
+3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back.
+
+There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these
+calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding
+:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are
+included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
+
+Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
+recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
+and measuring them directly on the fabric.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+
+
+.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're
+   cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same.
+
+Legs
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that
+the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running
+backstich.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of
+the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming
+stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side,
+sew with a hemming stitch.
+
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
+Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing
+allowance towards the inside on both long sides.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the
+short ends, press and turn inside out.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G);
+run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of
+each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass
+over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
+
+.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center
+   of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness
+   is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the
+   body.
+
+Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big
+needle or a pin.
+
+.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends
+by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter
+points.
+
+.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance,
+matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and
+overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if
+it's on the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the
+waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the
+back.
+
+.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet
+   matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg,
+   or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+
+See also
+--------
+
+- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13865/drawers-underpants-unknown/