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b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2da25e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +Roll Top Backpack +================= + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple backpack with a roll top closure. + +The pictures show this backpack as being sewn completely by hand: this +was because of some specific constraints of the project (mentioned in +the blog post), and it shows that MYOG as a hobby can be accessible even +when lacking a sewing machine. + +Most of the constructions could of course be done by machine, but +in that case I think it would be easier to bind the raw edges instead of +felling them, and using the variant with box corners instead of a +separate bottom. Attaching the leather-ish protection to the bottom +needs to be done by hand, however. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 1 m outer fabric (e.g. waxed canvas); +* 1 m lining fabric (e.g. lighter canvas); +* 30 cm leather-like material for reinforcements. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2.1 m 25 mm webbing; +* 1.6 m 50 mm webbing; +* 4 50 mm D-rings; +* 2 25 mm D-rings; +* glue suitable for the leather-like material; +* strong sewing thread; + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern from :download:`roll_top_backpack.val`. + +The file is set up to only print the pattern pieces for the bottom, +strap support and webbing cover, also available as a tiled PDF in A4 +format: :download:`roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf`; everything else are just +rectangles, and their measurements can be taken from the Variables Table +in valentina. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as indicated on the patter, either the basic pieces or +the ``bc`` variants if making the `Box Corners`_ variant. + +Back preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: Optionally add a molle pattern to the back, to be able to + attach some removable padding. + + .. figure:: 0200-molle_back.jpg + :align: center + + Cut 7 pieces of 25 mm webbing as wide as the back (including + allowances); starting 6.5 cm from the base put them at one webbing + width of distance from each other over the bottom back piece. + + Mark a line in the center, and lines at every 4 cm on each distance, and + sew, backstitching over each piece. + + If desired, sew similar pieces of webbing to the lower part of the + other panels. + +.. figure:: 0201-webbing_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 2 pieces of 50 mm webbing 80 cm long, fold them in half and slide +two wide D-rings in each of them. Sew them in place as close to the +D-ring as possible. + +.. figure:: 0202-whipstitch_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch or topstitch the edges of the webbing, making them +a single strap of double thickness. + +.. figure:: 0203-sewing_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the webbing pieces to the allowance at the top of the bottom back +piece, at 4 cm from the center. + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_closure_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, sew it to the allowance at the +top of the bottom back piece, right at the center. + +.. figure:: 0205-strap_support_preparation.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, put them on each strap +support so that one edge goes from one corner to the middle of the long +side and there are 5 cm of webbing beyond the long side. + +.. figure:: 0206-strap_support_sewing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the strap support in half, right sides facing, and sew at 1 cm from +the long edge. + +.. figure:: 0207-strap_support_topstitching.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, topstitch all around the webbing. + +.. figure:: 0208-attaching_strap_support.jpg + :align: center + +Put the strap support on top of the bottom back, 5 cm from the bottom, +with the webbing facing up, and sew in the allowance. + +Trim the excess webbing. + +.. figure:: 0209-sewing_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top back piece over the bottom back and +sew. Press the allowances up. + +Front preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-preparing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 10 cm of 25 mm webbing, put two D-rings in it, fold it in half and +sew as close to the rings as possible. + +.. figure:: 0302-whipstitching_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch the two sides. + +.. figure:: 0303-front_closure_placement.jpg + :align: center + +Put it in the center of the front piece, in such a way that the top +of the D-rings aligns just below the level of the seam in the back. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Sew a 2 cm × 2 cm square at the bottom of the webbing, plus diagonals +for strength. + +.. figure:: 0305-webbing_cover_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the webbing cover so that it covers the square seam and the raw ends +of the webbing, and appliquestitch it in place. + +Structure +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-back_over_back_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back over the back lining, wrong sides together, aligning it at +the bottom edge, centering it between the side edges so that there is 1 +cm of lining excess on each side, and making sure that at the top the +back is 2 cm longer than the lining. + +.. figure:: 0402-side_and_lining_over_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put one side lining on top of one side, aligned at the bottom and with 2 +cm of excess side compared to the lining. +Put the side on top of the back, outer / fabric sides together, aligning +the side of the side with that of the back outer. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam at 2 cm from the back lining edge (i.e. 1 cm from +every other edge). + +.. figure:: 0404-felling_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press the allowance of the back lining in +half, press the seam towards the side and fell. + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0405-sewing_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front on top of one side, right sides together and aligned at +the bottom and side edge, put the front lining on top of everything, +with right side on top, and aligned at the bottom and so that there is 1 +cm of excess of lining on the side. Sew at 2 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0406-felling_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Fell the seam. + +.. tip:: you can slide a metal ruler between the side and the side + lining to help you fell the seam without catching the outer fabric. + +.. figure:: 0407-aligning_other_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat for the other side of the front. + +.. figure:: 0410-attaching_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +With the body still inside out, put the outer base on the base lining, +wrong sides together, so that the outer is centered on the lining. +Starting from the corners put the base in the body, aligning the edges of +the body with the edge of the outer base and taking care to keep the +corners neat. Sew at 2 cm from the base lining edge. + +.. figure:: 0411-felling_base.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam towards the sides and fell, trying to fold the corners +as neatly as you can. + +.. figure:: 0412-hemming_top_opening.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the fabric at the top towards the lining, twice, forming a +hem, hemstitch it in place. + +Reinforcements +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Cut three rectangular pieces of reinforcement material, 3 cm wide and 2 +cm tall, fold them in half and sew them over the end of the straps. + +.. figure:: 0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the bottom piece F out of reinforcement material, glue the side tabs +closed to form a parallelepipedal open on the top. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Applique-stitch the reinforcement to the bottom of the backpack, making +sure to only catch the fabric and not the lining. + +.. tip:: depending on the material this reinforcement could be glued to + the backpack instead of being sewn, but this would make it harder to + change it later in case it was ruined from use. + +Variants +-------- + +Bound raw edges +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of flat-felling the raw edges, you can cut every piece with the +same sewing allowance of 1 cm, sew the pieces as instructed and then +bind the raw edges with bias or straight tape. + +Box corners +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a separate bottom you can make the front and back pieces +longer and add a seam at the center of the bottom; this will make the +bottom of the pack a bit less structured, but can be significantly +easier to sew. + +To do so, instead of pieces A, A1, B and D1 cut the pieces Abc, A1bc, +Bbc and D1bd, and skip piece E and E1. + +Sew the sides of the backpack as instructed above, aligning the pieces +from the top, when the instructions + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_back.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `The blog post where I describe planning and making this backpack + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/07/25-roll_top_backpack_handsewn/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff7e3c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfad8cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val @@ -0,0 +1,418 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Roll top backpack</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <customer/> + <birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate> + <email/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="width: %finalMeasurement_width%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="base height: %finalMeasurement_base_height%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="total height: %finalMeasurement_total_height%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="depth: %finalMeasurement_depth%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="height of bottom: %finalMeasurement_bottom_height%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#width" name="width"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#base_height" name="base_height"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#base_height + #top_height" name="total_height"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#depth" name="depth"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#bottom_height" name="bottom_height"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements/> + <increments> + <increment formula="30" name="#width"/> + <increment formula="42" name="#base_height"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#depth"/> + <increment formula="#depth * 3" name="#top_height"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#bottom_height"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#strap_triangle"/> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#webbing"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="backpack"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#base_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="2" id="3" length="#top_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="4" length="#width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="5" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="6" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="7" length="#depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" 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/dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4fe3d3c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst index 3c51e53..8944d51 100644 --- a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst @@ -84,7 +84,8 @@ PDF or valentina layout: * 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm :download:`20x20.pdf` :download:`20x20_layout.vlt`; * 10 cm × 10 cm × 1.5 cm, using just the zipper for the sides - :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`; + :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`: requires a piece + of zipper 32.5 cm long; * to measure as a carrying case for the Pyra_ handheld :download:`pyra_case.pdf` :download:`pyra_case_layout.vlt`. diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index b9f8001..74a63ef 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -75,3 +75,11 @@ year = {1905}, url = "https://archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt", } + +@Book{2018:friendship + author = {Elizabeth Friendship}, + title = {Making Working Women's Costume}, + publisher = {Crowood Press }, + year = {2018}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL27803094M/", +} diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst index d77f726..e0e6ad4 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst @@ -166,3 +166,5 @@ Gallery See Also -------- +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst index 8388d5e..c400af3 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst @@ -228,3 +228,5 @@ See Also <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/04-linen_slippers/index.html>`_ * `Blog post on making a pair of hiking slippers <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/05-hiking_slippers/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2be7e5a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ded035 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e064323 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba9e55d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd96da5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce54f26 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 336a354..997f9a8 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. -This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +This is a transitional pattern between the shirts completely made from rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the more structured shirts of the 20th century. @@ -510,7 +510,7 @@ hem stitch them down. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit -edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +edges are adjacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a hemstitch on the inside. @@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, -starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughly gathering the excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. @@ -680,7 +680,7 @@ Flat front :align: center To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front -that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_excess`` in the pattern and as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` @@ -697,6 +697,63 @@ left. Continue working the rest of the shirt. +Horizontal Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These instructions are for a shirt with an horizontal opening at the +yoke, closed with snaps, rather than a slit; they have no basis on any +historical source, but are useful to make a shirt for modern wear with +fancy fabric manipulation on the front. + +Skip most of the instructions on preparing the front, sewing just the +two halves of the yoke pieces. + +.. figure:: 0901-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it +between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck. + +.. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Roll up the back burrito style between the yoke pieces, and right sides +together sew the front seams of the yoke. + +.. figure:: 0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of twill tape about 2.5 cm longer than the front seams of +the yoke, insert them in the seam you've just sewed and sew them to the +outer side of the yoke with a spaced backstitch. + +Sew the collar to the yoke as per the regular instructions, inserting +the excess of tape into the overlap of the collar. + +.. figure:: 0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar close, and cut a piece of twill tape as long as the front of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0905-snaps.jpg + :align: center + +Sew three snaps per side to the front of the yoke, over the +reinforcement tape, and to the tape you've just cut, making sure that +they are aligned. + +.. figure:: 0906-sewing_front.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top of the front, and gather or otherwise manipulate its width +into the length of the tape, making sure to leave space on the sides to +cut away the armscyes; hemstitch the tape to the front just below +the hem. + +Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the +sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular +instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4e364b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Bodices +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + peasant_bodice/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d867b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6d0242 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0404278 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc530aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b26a373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Peasant Bodice +============== + +.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg + :align: center + +This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century; +since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for +more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen +in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from +various parts of Europe. + +I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly +on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a +parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, +starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to +have just one dart and of course a different neckline. + +This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to +reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as +costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. + +For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th +century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with +strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs +to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long +project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern +assembly method is also perfectly feasible. + +The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, +near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or +additional cording for more support. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m main fabric; +* less than 1 m lining fabric. + +The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable +enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording; + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`; +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`peasant_bodice.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``vest_length_in_front`` + vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for + the pointed variant; +``bust_to_neckline_front`` + vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front: + if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes + somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck; +``nape_to_neckline_back`` + vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the + neckline; +``shoulder_strap_width`` + width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough + to give a nice shape to the deep neckline; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist + line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value; +``distance_dart_center_front`` + horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good + value; +``ease`` + ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only + just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other + underwear; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the + side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg + :align: center + + instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping / +notching the curves. + +.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg + :align: center + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. + +.. + + Gallery + ------- + +See Also +-------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d61d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6580e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="2" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/> + <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#distance_dart_center_front"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" 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+</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 3cd3947..8f8ebe7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,6 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + bodices/index underwear/index accessories/index drafting_methods/index |
