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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b97cf8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ +Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. +========================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of +:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and +page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. + +.. figure:: measurements.png + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Blair's | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + + + |