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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-03-24 20:09:29 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-03-24 20:25:36 +0100
commitb754d9fb6e5265a2ea0da92ecd0eef26c92fd5f5 (patch)
tree6d6d86e5394d9527691682b84585664487433184 /source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
parentd96f73771c5e11e64b9851063547cea2a7b5c0ad (diff)
Added new drafting method: Blair's
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+Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting.
+==========================================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`.
+
+All measurements have been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of
+:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and
+page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
+
+.. figure:: measurements.png
+ :align: center
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Blair's | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
+
+