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+Peasant Bodice
+==============
+
+.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century;
+since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for
+more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen
+in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from
+various parts of Europe.
+
+I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly
+on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a
+parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design,
+starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to
+have just one dart and of course a different neckline.
+
+This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to
+reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as
+costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age.
+
+For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th
+century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with
+strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs
+to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long
+project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern
+assembly method is also perfectly feasible.
+
+The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front,
+near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or
+additional cording for more support.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Less than 1 m main fabric;
+* less than 1 m lining fabric.
+
+The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable
+enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric;
+* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording;
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`.
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`;
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used
+by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`peasant_bodice.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
+
+``vest_length_in_front``
+   vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for
+   the pointed variant;
+``bust_to_neckline_front``
+   vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front:
+   if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes
+   somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck;
+``nape_to_neckline_back``
+   vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the
+   neckline;
+``shoulder_strap_width``
+   width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough
+   to give a nice shape to the deep neckline;
+``length_darts_waist_down``
+   this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist
+   line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value;
+``distance_dart_center_front``
+   horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good
+   value;
+``ease``
+   ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only
+   just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other
+   underwear;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the
+   side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations;
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric.
+
+Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no
+sewing allowance on the center front edge.
+
+.. tip:: 
+
+   .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a
+   way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew
+   the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open.
+
+   .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+
+Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the
+center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for
+the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the
+seam out if needed in the future.
+
+Fronts
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the
+lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on
+the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the
+corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping /
+notching the curves.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold;
+
+.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place.
+
+.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more
+   decorative seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Repeat with a second length of cord.
+
+Lining
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the
+wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
+
+Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than
+the sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides
+together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance
+of the fabric piece.
+
+Eyelets
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording
+seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets
+every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm
+from each other.
+
+On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left
+panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2
+cm.
+
+Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1
+cm from the fabric edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and
+sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread.
+
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with
+whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the shoulder seam in the same way.
+
+Repeat with the other half of the bodice.
+
+.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the
+center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread.
+
+..
+
+   Gallery
+   -------
+
+See Also
+--------
+
+* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/