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|
Peasant Bodice
==============
.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg
:align: center
This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century;
since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for
more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen
in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from
various parts of Europe.
I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly
on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a
parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design,
starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to
have just one dart and of course a different neckline.
This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to
reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as
costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age.
For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th
century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with
strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs
to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long
project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern
assembly method is also perfectly feasible.
The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front,
near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or
additional cording for more support.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* Less than 1 m main fabric;
* less than 1 m lining fabric.
The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable
enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric;
* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording;
Pattern
-------
This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`.
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`;
the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used
by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`peasant_bodice.val`.
You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
``vest_length_in_front``
vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for
the pointed variant;
``bust_to_neckline_front``
vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front:
if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes
somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck;
``nape_to_neckline_back``
vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the
neckline;
``shoulder_strap_width``
width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough
to give a nice shape to the deep neckline;
``length_darts_waist_down``
this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist
line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value;
``distance_dart_center_front``
horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good
value;
``ease``
ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only
just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other
underwear;
``sewing_allowance``
e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the
side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations;
Instructions
------------
Cutting
^^^^^^^
Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric.
Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no
sewing allowance on the center front edge.
.. tip::
.. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg
:align: center
instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a
way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew
the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open.
.. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg
:align: center
Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the
center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for
the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the
seam out if needed in the future.
Fronts
^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg
:align: center
Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the
lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on
the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk.
.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg
:align: center
Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the
corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping /
notching the curves.
.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg
:align: center
Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold;
.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg
:align: center
sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place.
.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more
decorative seam.
.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg
:align: center
Repeat with a second length of cord.
Lining
^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg
:align: center
If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the
wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than
the sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg
:align: center
.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg
:align: center
Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides
together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance
of the fabric piece.
Eyelets
^^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg
:align: center
Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording
seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets
every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm
from each other.
On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left
panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2
cm.
Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1
cm from the fabric edge.
.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg
:align: center
Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and
sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread.
Assembly
^^^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with
whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread.
.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg
:align: center
Sew the shoulder seam in the same way.
Repeat with the other half of the bodice.
.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg
:align: center
And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the
center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread.
..
Gallery
-------
See Also
--------
* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/
|
