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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst | 111 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val | 104 |
2 files changed, 215 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f5cd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton & Burton, p. 73</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Sleevelet</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <customer/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements/> + <increments> + <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the elbow end (before gathering, if any)" formula="33" name="#elbow_width"/> + <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the wrist end (before gathering, if any)" formula="#elbow_width - 5" name="#wrist_width"/> + <increment description="length of the sleevelet" formula="30" name="#length"/> + <increment description="circumference of the wrist, plus ease" formula="18" name="#cuff_circ"/> + <increment description="height of the cuff" formula="2" name="#cuff_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="sleevelet"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#wrist_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="4" length="#elbow_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="6" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="#cuff_circ + #cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.659867" my="0.867526" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="8" length="#cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="9" mx="0.586883" my="-1.44013" name="A8" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="10" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" name="A9" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="10" id="11" length="Line_A9_A8" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10853" my="-0.865935" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" center="11" color="black" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="Line_A9_A8" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" name="A11" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="33" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="13" idObject="5" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="14" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="15" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="16" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="26" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <arc id="28" idObject="12" inUse="false" type="modeling"/> + <point id="29" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="30" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="31" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="34" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="35" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="true" firstToCountour="true" id="36" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="cut" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="17" mx="0" my="0" name="sleevelet" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{976682eb-92b1-4507-a7f9-23a948ca9eda}" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="64.5293" my="41.3949" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-210.796" my="39.244" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" idObject="13" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="1" idObject="14" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="4" idObject="15" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="4" idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="36"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="32" mx="1.08292" my="-2.43657" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c0cd708c-5d5d-442c-8787-08c84ecd644d}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.8" letter="B" mx="221.287" my="-30.197" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.8" mx="35.0911" 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