Merge branch 'master' into 1880-shirt

2 files changed, 215 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b06d6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,111 @@
+Sleevelets
+==========
+
+.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on
+:cite:`1916:school` from 1916.
+
+They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project,
+suitable for beginners.
+
+This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at
+the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in
+the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed
+and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed.
+In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic
+anyway.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* ~35 cm washable fabric
+
+Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are
+good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the
+kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
+* 2 small buttons;
+* 60–70 cm elastic (optional).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the
+following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables:
+
+``#elbow_width``
+  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before
+  gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm;
+``#wrist_width``
+  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before
+  gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the
+  ``#elbow_width``;
+``#length``
+  length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the
+  original instructions this was 30 cm;
+``#cuff_circ``
+  the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm;
+``#cuff_height``
+  height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut
+two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material
+doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce
+waste.
+
+From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as
+the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and
+sew all around with a 2 mm allowance.  Carefully cut the slit, turn the
+facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all
+sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by
+machine or hemstitch by hand.
+
+Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with
+wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside
+out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance.
+Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to
+press in the opposite direction.
+
+Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either
+topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand.
+
+.. note::
+
+   If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long
+   enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly.
+
+With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and
+sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the
+rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1
+cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and
+press towards the cuff.  Fold the other allowance of the cuff and
+topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances.
+
+Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to
+the other end.
+
+Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where
+they don't interfere with the use of the hands.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1f5cd1a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val
@@ -0,0 +1,104 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern>
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton &amp; Burton, p. 73</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Sleevelet</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <customer/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the elbow end (before gathering, if any)" formula="33" name="#elbow_width"/>
+        <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the wrist end (before gathering, if any)" formula="#elbow_width - 5" name="#wrist_width"/>
+        <increment description="length of the sleevelet" formula="30" name="#length"/>
+        <increment description="circumference of the wrist, plus ease" formula="18" name="#cuff_circ"/>
+        <increment description="height of the cuff" formula="2" name="#cuff_height"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="sleevelet">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#wrist_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="4" length="#elbow_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="6" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="#cuff_circ + #cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.659867" my="0.867526" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="8" length="#cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="9" mx="0.586883" my="-1.44013" name="A8" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="10" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" name="A9" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="10" id="11" length="Line_A9_A8" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10853" my="-0.865935" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" center="11" color="black" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="Line_A9_A8" type="simple"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" name="A11" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="33" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="13" idObject="5" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="14" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="15" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="16" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="26" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="27" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <arc id="28" idObject="12" inUse="false" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="29" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="30" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="31" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="34" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="35" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="true" firstToCountour="true" id="36" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="cut" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="17" mx="0" my="0" name="sleevelet" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{976682eb-92b1-4507-a7f9-23a948ca9eda}" version="2" width="2">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="64.5293" my="41.3949" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-210.796" my="39.244" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node after="1" idObject="13" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="1" idObject="14" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="4" idObject="15" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="4" idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="36"/>
+                </iPaths>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="32" mx="1.08292" my="-2.43657" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c0cd708c-5d5d-442c-8787-08c84ecd644d}" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.8" letter="B" mx="221.287" my="-30.197" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.8" mx="35.0911" my="-29.977" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="28" reverse="1" type="NodeArc"/>
+                    <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>