summaryrefslogtreecommitdiff
path: root/source/historical_menswear/shirts
diff options
context:
space:
mode:
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts')
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpgbin0 -> 765292 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpgbin0 -> 678416 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpgbin0 -> 1082571 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpgbin0 -> 1045974 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpgbin0 -> 1060300 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpgbin0 -> 1022540 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst65
7 files changed, 61 insertions, 4 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2be7e5a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ded035
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e064323
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ba9e55d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fd96da5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ce54f26
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index 336a354..997f9a8 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -11,7 +11,7 @@
A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's
treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880.
-This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from
+This is a transitional pattern between the shirts completely made from
rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the
more structured shirts of the 20th century.
@@ -510,7 +510,7 @@ hem stitch them down.
From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit
-edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a
+edges are adjacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a
hemstitch on the inside.
@@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt.
Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the
sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye,
-starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the
+starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughly gathering the
excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece.
Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again.
@@ -680,7 +680,7 @@ Flat front
:align: center
To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front
-that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and
+that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_excess`` in the pattern and
as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``.
Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3``
@@ -697,6 +697,63 @@ left.
Continue working the rest of the shirt.
+Horizontal Opening
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+These instructions are for a shirt with an horizontal opening at the
+yoke, closed with snaps, rather than a slit; they have no basis on any
+historical source, but are useful to make a shirt for modern wear with
+fancy fabric manipulation on the front.
+
+Skip most of the instructions on preparing the front, sewing just the
+two halves of the yoke pieces.
+
+.. figure:: 0901-sewing_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it
+between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck.
+
+.. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Roll up the back burrito style between the yoke pieces, and right sides
+together sew the front seams of the yoke.
+
+.. figure:: 0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Cut two pieces of twill tape about 2.5 cm longer than the front seams of
+the yoke, insert them in the seam you've just sewed and sew them to the
+outer side of the yoke with a spaced backstitch.
+
+Sew the collar to the yoke as per the regular instructions, inserting
+the excess of tape into the overlap of the collar.
+
+.. figure:: 0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Pin the collar close, and cut a piece of twill tape as long as the front of the shirt.
+
+.. figure:: 0905-snaps.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Sew three snaps per side to the front of the yoke, over the
+reinforcement tape, and to the tape you've just cut, making sure that
+they are aligned.
+
+.. figure:: 0906-sewing_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Hem the top of the front, and gather or otherwise manipulate its width
+into the length of the tape, making sure to leave space on the sides to
+cut away the armscyes; hemstitch the tape to the front just below
+the hem.
+
+Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the
+sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular
+instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt.
+
Gallery
-------