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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst deleted file mode 100644 index a4639be..0000000 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ /dev/null @@ -1,629 +0,0 @@ -1880 Shirt -========== - -.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg - :align: center - -A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's -treasury of domestic information -<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_ -from 1880. - -While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern -instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), -so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual -for a modern pattern. - -Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a -mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may -want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. - -This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've -seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use -a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but -you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front -opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. - -I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would -be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most -definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the -book). - -If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine -everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything -else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to -sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the -instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for -historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however, -unless that's not a concern. - -The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done -by machine, and everything else by hand. - -Materials ---------- - -Fabric -^^^^^^ - -* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric; -* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional). - -Notions -^^^^^^^ - -* sewing thread to match the fabric; -* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; -* 5 or more small buttons. - -Pattern -------- - -Measurements -^^^^^^^^^^^^ - -You need to take the following measurements: - -``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) - vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee; -``neck_circ`` (G02) - circumference of the neck; -``bust_circ`` (G04) - circumference of the torso, just below the armholes; -``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01) - vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist; -``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05) - vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the - front; -``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) - vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; -``shoulder_length`` (I01) - distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; -``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07) - distance from one shoulder tip to the other one; -``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01) - distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm; -``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15) - circumference of the wrist; - -refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the -file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and -has the list of needed measurements. - -Pattern -^^^^^^^ - -Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`. - -You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the -table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible, -but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits -nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: - -``shirt_length_back`` - usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``; -``shirt_length_front`` - a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; -``shirt_width`` - the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the - width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical), - and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine; -``front_slit_length`` - the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily - be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement -``button_placket_width`` - the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste; -``ease`` - the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two - variables; -``front_slit_width`` - the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at - least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be - pleated; -``front_gathers_width`` - the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated / - gathered: at least the width of the button placket; -``front_band_height`` - the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to - taste; -``yoke_depth`` - from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste; -``cuff_length`` - length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used - with detached cuffs; -``sleeve_length`` - length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half - the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to - be; -``sleeve_width`` - the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this - is often half the ``shirt_width``; -``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` - the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before - gathering it into the cuff; -``sleeve_slit`` - the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste; -``collar_band_height`` - the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2 - cm is usually fine; -``sewing_allowance`` - the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering - that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be - cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin - fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit - more. - -The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are -used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width`` -from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can -ignore them. - -The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as -those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw -mode as follows: - -back: - a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as - ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1); -front: - a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as - ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8); -sleeves: - the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of - ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of - ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds - to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the - other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a - rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as - ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained - below. - -This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with -detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other -source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as -used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band. - -Instructions ------------- - -Pattern adjustments -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ - -Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to -it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck -and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving -the space for the button placket. - -You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then -bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces. - -Cutting -^^^^^^^ - -.. tip:: - - While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular - pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip - them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread. - -Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. - -.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg - :align: center - -If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper -pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double -seaming allowance. - -.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg - :align: center - -If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the -best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the -rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center -and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance -a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of -fabric along the fold. - -.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg - :align: center - -After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you -will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to -complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this -won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough -for it not to be a problem. - -.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg - :align: center - -If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong -side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides -of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above -schematic. - -.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg - :align: center - - The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when - cutting the shoulder piece. - -Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each -collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue. - -If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in -interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar -band. - -Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small -reinforcement patches. - -Collar and Cuffs -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ - -.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg - :align: center - -Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides -and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt. - -.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg - :align: center - -Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. - -.. note:: - - If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its - construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or - two layers of interfacing. - -.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg - :align: center - -Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing -on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the -trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. - -.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg - :align: center - -Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. - -.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg - :align: center - -Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing -backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the -corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again. -Make a buttonhole in the tongue. - -Front -^^^^^ - -Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front. - -.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg - :align: center - -On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice -towards the front. - -.. note:: - - This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket, - and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct - right or wrong side. - - If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you - can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in - place instead of applique stitching it. - -Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing -outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half -the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket -(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other). Overlap the -pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams. - -Press everything. - -.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg - :align: center - -Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line. - - -.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg - :align: center - -Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden -below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat. - -On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from -each edge. - -Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom -horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers. - -.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg - :align: center - -Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides -together, and backstitch it. - -Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side. - -.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg - :align: center - -Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place. -Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread -from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater. - -.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg - :align: center - -.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg - :align: center - -Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers -the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch -the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and -sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it. - -.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg - :align: center - -Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to -the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so -that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased. - -.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg - :align: center - -Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center -seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces. - -.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg - :align: center - -Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back, -then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on -the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and -remove the collar from the assembly. - -.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg - :align: center - -Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides -together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two -shoulders. Press up. - -.. note:: - - This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original - instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back - first. - - This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it - easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit. - -Back -^^^^ - -Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top -edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. - -.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg - :align: center - -Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the -shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together -at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part -should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side -for the armhole. Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case -you want to use this pattern again. - -.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg - :align: center - -Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece, -backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the -shoulder piece. -Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder -piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch. - -.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpg - :align: center - -Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the -back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one. - -.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg - :align: center - -Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides -together, backstitch one side of the collar band. - -.. tip: - - While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges - where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the - collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand - and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand. - -Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the -remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all -raw edges. - -Sleeves -^^^^^^^ - -.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg - :align: center - -Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning -the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve. - -.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg - :align: center - -Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the -gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and -hemstitch it to the sleeve. - -.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg - :align: center - -Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one -seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch - -.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg - :align: center - -Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between -the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the -raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other -sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the -opposite direction). - -.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg - :align: center - -Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve -(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and -hem stitch them down. - -.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg - :align: center - -From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the -diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to -the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit -edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a -hemstitch on the inside. - - -.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff.jpg - :align: center - - -Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather -it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the -edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching -each gather with a stitch. - -.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff_wrong_side.jpg - :align: center - -Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching -each gather. - -.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg - -Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding -buttonhole to the larger part. - -Assembly of the body -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ - -.. figure:: 0601-aligning_hem.jpg - :align: center - -Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10 -cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a -point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam -will end. - -.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg - -.. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg - :align: center - -Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4 -cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end -of the side seam. - -Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back -is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double -allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. - -Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, -mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side -seam, and hemstitch. - -.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: - -Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a -reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. - - - -Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the -sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, -starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the -excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. - -Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. - -When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper -and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front -and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern. - -Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end, -save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another -shirt in this size. - -.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg - :align: center - -Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on -both sides of the shirt. - -Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the -points just marked. - -.. tip:: - - Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and - quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and - sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance. - -Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the -edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on -the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the -ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam -allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder -piece, catching each gather. - -Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of -fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it -towards the body. - -.. note:: - - Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original - instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming - it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you - want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and - before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, - backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, - press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the - straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the - previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part - catching each gather with a stitch. - -From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on -the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the -bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the -outside and a hemstitch on the inside. - -Finishing -^^^^^^^^^ - -Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more -button and buttonholes on the front placket. - -Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the -half dozen :) |