Rename shirt to refer to the decade, not year

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-1880 Shirt
-==========
-
-.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg
-   :align: center
-
-A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's
-treasury of domestic information
-<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
-from 1880.
-
-While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern
-instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
-so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual
-for a modern pattern.
-
-Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a
-mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may
-want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece.
-
-This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
-seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
-a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
-you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
-opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.
-
-I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
-be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most
-definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the
-book).
-
-If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
-everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything
-else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to
-sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the
-instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for
-historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however,
-unless that's not a concern.
-
-The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done
-by machine, and everything else by hand.
-
-Materials
----------
-
-Fabric
-^^^^^^
-
-* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
-* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional).
-
-Notions
-^^^^^^^
-
-* sewing thread to match the fabric;
-* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
-* 5 or more small buttons.
-
-Pattern
--------
-
-Measurements
-^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
-You need to take the following measurements:
-
-``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
-   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee;
-``neck_circ`` (G02)
-   circumference of the neck;
-``bust_circ`` (G04)
-   circumference of the torso, just below the armholes;
-``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
-   vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist;
-``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
-   vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the
-   front;
-``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
-   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
-``shoulder_length`` (I01)
-   distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
-``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
-   distance from one shoulder tip to the other one;
-``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
-   distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm;
-``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
-   circumference of the wrist;
-
-refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the
-file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and
-has the list of needed measurements.
-
-Pattern
-^^^^^^^
-
-Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`.
-
-You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
-table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible,
-but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits
-nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
-
-``shirt_length_back``
-   usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``;
-``shirt_length_front``
-   a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
-``shirt_width``
-   the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
-   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical),
-   and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine;
-``front_slit_length``
-   the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
-   be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
-``button_placket_width``
-   the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste;
-``ease``
-   the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two
-   variables;
-``front_slit_width``
-   the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at
-   least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
-   pleated;
-``front_gathers_width``
-   the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated /
-   gathered: at least the width of the button placket;
-``front_band_height``
-   the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
-   taste;
-``yoke_depth``
-   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste;
-``cuff_length``
-   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used
-   with detached cuffs;
-``sleeve_length``
-   length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
-   the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
-   be;
-``sleeve_width``
-   the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this
-   is often half the ``shirt_width``;
-``sleeve_wrist_circumference``
-   the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
-   gathering it into the cuff;
-``sleeve_slit``
-   the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste;
-``collar_band_height``
-   the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2
-   cm is usually fine;
-``sewing_allowance``
-   the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
-   that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
-   cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin
-   fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit
-   more.
-
-The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are
-used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width``
-from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
-ignore them.
-
-The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
-those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw
-mode as follows:
-
-back:
-   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as
-   ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1);
-front:
-   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as
-   ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8);
-sleeves:
-   the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of
-   ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of
-   ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds
-   to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the
-   other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a
-   rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as
-   ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained
-   below.
-
-This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with
-detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other
-source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as
-used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band.
-
-Instructions
-------------
-
-Pattern adjustments
-^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
-Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to
-it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck
-and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving
-the space for the button placket.
-
-You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
-bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.
-
-Cutting
-^^^^^^^
-
-.. tip::
-
-   While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular
-   pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip
-   them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread.
-
-Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
-
-.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
-pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
-lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
-seaming allowance.
-
-.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
-   :align: center
-
-If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
-best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the
-rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center
-and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance
-a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
-fabric along the fold.
-
-.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
-   :align: center
-
-After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you
-will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to
-complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
-won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
-for it not to be a problem.
-
-.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg
-   :align: center
-
-If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
-side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
-of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above
-schematic.
-
-.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-   The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when
-   cutting the shoulder piece.
-
-Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
-collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
-
-If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in
-interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar
-band.
-
-Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
-reinforcement patches.
-
-Collar and Cuffs
-^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
-.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
-and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.
-
-.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
-
-.. note::
-
-   If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its
-   construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or
-   two layers of interfacing.
-
-.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing
-on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the
-trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
-
-.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
-
-.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing
-backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the
-corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again.
-Make a buttonhole in the tongue.
-
-Front
-^^^^^
-
-Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front.
-
-.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice
-towards the front.
-
-.. note::
-
-   This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket,
-   and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct
-   right or wrong side.
-
-   If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you
-   can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in
-   place instead of applique stitching it.
-
-Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing
-outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half
-the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket
-(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other).  Overlap the
-pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams.
-
-Press everything.
-
-.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.
-
-
-.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden
-below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat.
-
-On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
-each edge.
-
-Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
-horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.
-
-.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides
-together, and backstitch it.
-
-Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.
-
-.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place.
-Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread
-from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater.
-
-.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers
-the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch
-the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and
-sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it.
-
-.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
-the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so
-that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased.
-
-.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center
-seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces.
-
-.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back,
-then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on
-the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and
-remove the collar from the assembly.
-
-.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
-together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two
-shoulders. Press up.
-
-.. note::
-
-   This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original
-   instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back
-   first.
-
-   This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it
-   easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit.
-
-Back
-^^^^
-
-Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top
-edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
-
-.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
-shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
-at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part
-should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side
-for the armhole.  Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case
-you want to use this pattern again.
-
-.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
-backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the
-shoulder piece.
-Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
-piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.
-
-.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
-back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one.
-
-.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides
-together, backstitch one side of the collar band.
-
-.. tip:
-
-   While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges
-   where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the
-   collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand
-   and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand.
-
-Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the
-remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all
-raw edges.
-
-Sleeves
-^^^^^^^
-
-.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning
-the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve.
-
-.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the
-gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and
-hemstitch it to the sleeve.
-
-.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one
-seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch
-
-.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
-the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the
-raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other
-sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the
-opposite direction).
-
-.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve
-(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and
-hem stitch them down.
-
-.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
-diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
-the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit
-edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a
-hemstitch on the inside.
-
-
-.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-
-Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather
-it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the
-edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
-each gather with a stitch.
-
-.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff_wrong_side.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching
-each gather.
-
-.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg
-
-Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding
-buttonhole to the larger part.
-
-Assembly of the body
-^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
-.. figure:: 0601-aligning_hem.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10
-cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a
-point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam
-will end.
-
-.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg
-
-.. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4
-cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end
-of the side seam.
-
-Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back
-is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double
-allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch.
-
-Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice,
-mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side
-seam, and hemstitch.
-
-.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:
-
-Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a
-reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt.
-
-
-
-Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the
-sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye,
-starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the
-excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece.
-
-Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again.
-
-When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper
-and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front
-and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern.
-
-Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end,
-save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another
-shirt in this size.
-
-.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg
-   :align: center
-
-Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on
-both sides of the shirt.
-
-Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the
-points just marked.
-
-.. tip::
-
-   Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and
-   quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and
-   sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance.
-
-Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the
-edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on
-the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the
-ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam
-allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder
-piece, catching each gather.
-
-Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of
-fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it
-towards the body.
-
-.. note::
-
-   Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
-   instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming
-   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you
-   want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and
-   before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing,
-   backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge,
-   press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the
-   straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the
-   previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part
-   catching each gather with a stitch.
-
-From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on
-the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the
-bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
-outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
-
-Finishing
-^^^^^^^^^
-
-Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more
-button and buttonholes on the front placket.
-
-Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
-half dozen :)