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-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst33
1 files changed, 28 insertions, 5 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
index e63f674..56aff5b 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
@@ -97,21 +97,44 @@ sew with a hemming stitch.
Assembly
^^^^^^^^
-Mark the point of the top of the leg at the center of the pattern; run a
-gathering thread about 1 cm from the top; if the fabric is coarse enough
-pick up three threads and pass over four, otherwise try at least to
-maintain the ratio.
+Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing
+allowance towards the inside on both long ends.
+
+Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the
+short ends, press and turn inside out.
+
+Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run
+separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back
+of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and
+pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center
of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness
is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the
body.
-Pull
+Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big
+needle or a pin.
+
+Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends
+by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter
+points.
+
+Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance,
+matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and
+overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if
+it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the
+waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the
+back.
+
+.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet
+ matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg,
+ or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed.
Finishing
^^^^^^^^^
+Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband.
Variants
--------