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1838 Drawers
============
.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg
:align: center
.. only:: html
.. contents::
:cite:`1838:workwoman`
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm
wide.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
Pattern
-------
:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one
size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*;
they are, converted to cm:
====== ==
meas cm
====== ==
width 80
length 86
A to B 23
B to C 46
C to G 40
C to E 40
F to G 6
F to S 29
====== ==
For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the
distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and
allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern)
fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the
hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to
*twice* the circumference of the hips).
For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between
the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested
measurements, and scale everything else in proportion.
For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for
the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe
3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back.
There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these
calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding
:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are
included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
and measuring them directly on the fabric.
Instructions
------------
Cutting
^^^^^^^
.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're
cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same.
Legs
^^^^
Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that
the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running
backstich.
Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of
the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch.
Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming
stitch.
Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side,
sew with a hemming stitch.
Assembly
^^^^^^^^
Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing
allowance towards the inside on both long ends.
Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the
short ends, press and turn inside out.
Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run
separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back
of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and
pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio.
.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center
of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness
is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the
body.
Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big
needle or a pin.
Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends
by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter
points.
Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance,
matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and
overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if
it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the
waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the
back.
.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet
matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg,
or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed.
Finishing
^^^^^^^^^
Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband.
Variants
--------
Gallery
-------
See also
--------
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/
* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797
|
