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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst | 20 |
1 files changed, 19 insertions, 1 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index 97a715f..d3ce260 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -116,7 +116,11 @@ body. .. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing - allowances this gives a seam + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. .. figure:: shift_layout.svg :align: center @@ -158,6 +162,15 @@ and hemstitch from the wrong side. Sleeves ^^^^^^^ +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats + + +make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to +distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at +least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges. + +Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve. Gussets ^^^^^^^ @@ -165,6 +178,11 @@ Gussets Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, mitering the corners, hemstitch. +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ |