shift instructions

1 files changed, 19 insertions, 1 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index 97a715f..d3ce260 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -116,7 +116,11 @@ body.
 
 .. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle
    of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing
-   allowances this gives a seam 
+   allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an
+   angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to
+   give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula,
+   but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance,
+   will usually make it good enough.
 
 .. figure:: shift_layout.svg
    :align: center
@@ -158,6 +162,15 @@ and hemstitch from the wrong side.
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
+Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the
+sleeve bands by forming box pleats 
+
+
+make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to
+distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at
+least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges.
+
+Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve.
 
 Gussets
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -165,6 +178,11 @@ Gussets
 Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
 mitering the corners, hemstitch.
 
+Shoulder Straps
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch.
 
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^