New patterns: apron and sleevelets.

1 files changed, 111 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b06d6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,111 @@
+Sleevelets
+==========
+
+.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on
+:cite:`1916:school` from 1916.
+
+They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project,
+suitable for beginners.
+
+This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at
+the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in
+the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed
+and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed.
+In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic
+anyway.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* ~35 cm washable fabric
+
+Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are
+good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the
+kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
+* 2 small buttons;
+* 60–70 cm elastic (optional).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the
+following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables:
+
+``#elbow_width``
+  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before
+  gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm;
+``#wrist_width``
+  the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before
+  gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the
+  ``#elbow_width``;
+``#length``
+  length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the
+  original instructions this was 30 cm;
+``#cuff_circ``
+  the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm;
+``#cuff_height``
+  height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut
+two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material
+doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce
+waste.
+
+From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as
+the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and
+sew all around with a 2 mm allowance.  Carefully cut the slit, turn the
+facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all
+sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by
+machine or hemstitch by hand.
+
+Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with
+wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside
+out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance.
+Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to
+press in the opposite direction.
+
+Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either
+topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand.
+
+.. note::
+
+   If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long
+   enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly.
+
+With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and
+sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the
+rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1
+cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and
+press towards the cuff.  Fold the other allowance of the cuff and
+topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances.
+
+Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to
+the other end.
+
+Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where
+they don't interfere with the use of the hands.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+