From fe5649c2d94109b156a9ae937bf61f97597e871c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 07:52:41 +0200 Subject: New patterns: apron and sleevelets. --- .../accessories/sleevelets/index.rst | 111 +++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 111 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst') diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + -- cgit v1.2.3