Begin drafting a pattern for a 1880 shirt

3 files changed, 326 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d7de9fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -0,0 +1,204 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.49.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.8.11</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <measurements>shirt.vit</measurements>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="height_neck_back_to_knee" name="#shirt_length_back"/>
+        <increment formula="#shirt_length_back - 8" name="#shirt_length_front"/>
+        <increment formula="90" name="#shirt_width"/>
+        <increment formula="neck_front_to_waist_f" name="#front_slit_length"/>
+        <increment formula="2.5" name="#button_placket_width"/>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/>
+        <increment description="the fabric that needs to be hidden by the pleats and placket" formula="#shirt_width - bust_circ / 2 - #ease / 2" name="#fabric_excess"/>
+        <increment description="fabric hidden by the placket" formula="#button_placket_width * 5" name="#placket_excess"/>
+        <increment formula="#fabric_excess - #placket_excess" name="#gathers_excess"/>
+        <increment formula="#button_placket_width * 6 + #gathers_excess / 2 * 3" name="#front_slit_width"/>
+        <increment formula="#button_placket_width + #gathers_excess / 2" name="#front_gathers_width"/>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#front_band_height"/>
+        <increment formula="6" name="#yoke_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#armhole_width_back"/>
+        <increment formula="3" name="#armhole_width_front"/>
+        <increment formula="9" name="#cuff_length"/>
+        <increment formula="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/>
+        <increment formula="0.6" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="shirt">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#shirt_length_back - #yoke_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#shirt_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="4" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="5" id="6" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="17" length="neck_back_to_waist_b / 2 - #yoke_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="18" length="#armhole_width_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="19" length1="Line_A_A6 * 0.8" length2="Line_A_A7" penStyle="hair" point1="18" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <operation axisType="1" center="5" id="20" suffix="a1" type="flippingByAxis">
+                <source>
+                    <item idObject="18"/>
+                    <item idObject="19"/>
+                    <item idObject="17"/>
+                </source>
+                <destination>
+                    <item idObject="21" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/>
+                    <item idObject="22"/>
+                    <item idObject="23" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/>
+                </destination>
+            </operation>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="37" length="#shirt_length_front - (neck_side_to_waist_f - neck_front_to_waist_f)" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="38" length="#shirt_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="38" id="39" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="37" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="38" id="40" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="40" id="41" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="37" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="40" id="42" length="#front_slit_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="42" id="43" length="#front_slit_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="42" id="44" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="38" id="45" length="#armhole_width_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="40" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="38" id="46" length="neck_side_to_waist_f / 2 - (neck_side_to_waist_f - neck_front_to_waist_f)" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="39" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="0" color="black" id="47" length1="Line_A9_A17 * 0.8" length2="Line_A9_A16" penStyle="hair" point1="45" point4="46" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <operation axisType="1" center="40" id="48" suffix="a2" type="flippingByAxis">
+                <source>
+                    <item idObject="45"/>
+                    <item idObject="47"/>
+                    <item idObject="46"/>
+                </source>
+                <destination>
+                    <item idObject="49" mx="-3.99409" my="0.480378"/>
+                    <item idObject="50"/>
+                    <item idObject="51" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875"/>
+                </destination>
+            </operation>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="75" length="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="75" id="76" length="#yoke_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="76" id="77" length="neck_circ * 0.4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="77" id="78" length="neck_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="180" color="black" id="79" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="78" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" center="78" color="cornflowerblue" id="80" penStyle="hair" radius="shoulder_length" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="77" curve="80" id="81" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="78" id="84" lineColor="black" secondPoint="81" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A22 + 90" color="black" id="85" length1="3" length2="1.67106" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="81" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="12" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="13" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="14" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="15" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="24" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="25" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="26" idObject="4" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="27" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="29" idObject="18" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="30" idObject="19" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="31" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="32" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="armhole" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="30" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="33" idObject="21" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="34" idObject="22" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="35" idObject="23" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="36" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="armhole" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="34" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="52" idObject="38" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="53" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="54" idObject="37" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="55" idObject="39" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="57" idObject="45" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="58" idObject="47" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="59" idObject="46" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="60" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="armhole" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="57" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="58" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="61" idObject="49" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="62" idObject="50" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="63" idObject="51" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="64" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="armhole" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="62" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="65" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="66" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="67" idObject="40" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="68" idObject="41" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="69" idObject="40" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="70" idObject="42" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="71" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="slit" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="69" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="72" idObject="43" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="73" idObject="44" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="74" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="slit" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="66" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="65" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="32"/>
+                    <record path="36"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>65</record>
+                    <record>66</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="56" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="52" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="53" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="54" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="55" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="60"/>
+                    <record path="64"/>
+                    <record path="71"/>
+                    <record path="74"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>67</record>
+                    <record>68</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index d4a260c..0e2aebc 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -26,6 +26,101 @@ Notions
 Pattern
 -------
 
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
+   ;
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+   ;
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   ;
+``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
+   ;
+``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
+   ;
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   ;
+``shoulder_length`` (I01)
+   ;
+``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
+   ;
+``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
+   ;
+``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
+   ;
+
+the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
+and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible,
+but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits
+nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
+
+``shirt_length_back``
+   usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``;
+``shirt_length_front``
+   a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
+``shirt_width``
+   the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
+   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical);
+``front_slit_length``
+   the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
+   be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
+``button_placket_width``
+   the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste;
+``ease``
+   the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two
+   variables;
+``front_slit_width``
+   the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at
+   least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
+   pleated;
+``front_gathers_width``
+   the final width to which the material in the front slit is gathered:
+   at least the width of the button placket;
+``front_band_height``
+   the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
+   taste;
+``yoke_depth``
+   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends, to taste;
+``cuff_length``
+   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste;
+``sleeve_length``
+   length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
+   the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
+   be;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
+   that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
+   cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin
+   fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit
+   more.
+
+The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are
+used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width``
+from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
+ignore them.
+
+The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
+those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the
+Draw mode as follows:
+
+back:
+   width: A – A2, height: A – A1;
+front:
+   width: A – A2, height: A — A8;
+sleeves:
+   ;
+
 Instructions
 ------------
 
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e3b911
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/shirt.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,27 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.49.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.1</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="height_neck_back_to_knee" value="100"/>
+        <m name="neck_circ" value="32"/>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="92"/>
+        <m name="neck_front_to_waist_f" value="38"/>
+        <m name="neck_side_to_waist_f" value="41.5"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="40"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_length" value="11"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b" value="35.4"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="59"/>
+        <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="16.5"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>