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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index d4a260c..0e2aebc 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -26,6 +26,101 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) + ; +``neck_circ`` (G02) + ; +``bust_circ`` (G04) + ; +``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01) + ; +``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05) + ; +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + ; +``shoulder_length`` (I01) + ; +``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07) + ; +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01) + ; +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15) + ; + +the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible, +but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits +nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: + +``shirt_length_back`` + usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``; +``shirt_length_front`` + a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; +``shirt_width`` + the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the + width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical); +``front_slit_length`` + the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily + be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement +``button_placket_width`` + the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste; +``ease`` + the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two + variables; +``front_slit_width`` + the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at + least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be + pleated; +``front_gathers_width`` + the final width to which the material in the front slit is gathered: + at least the width of the button placket; +``front_band_height`` + the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to + taste; +``yoke_depth`` + from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends, to taste; +``cuff_length`` + length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste; +``sleeve_length`` + length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half + the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to + be; +``sewing_allowance`` + the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering + that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be + cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin + fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit + more. + +The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are +used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width`` +from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can +ignore them. + +The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as +those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the +Draw mode as follows: + +back: + width: A – A2, height: A – A1; +front: + width: A – A2, height: A — A8; +sleeves: + ; + Instructions ------------ |