More parts of the shirt pattern

6 files changed, 444 insertions, 58 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index 8511f4e..a576f4d 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -5,6 +5,18 @@
     <unit>cm</unit>
     <description/>
     <notes/>
+    <patternName>1880 gentleman's shirt</patternName>
+    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <company>Beeton's housewife's
+treasury…</company>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
     <measurements>shirt.vit</measurements>
     <increments>
         <increment formula="height_neck_back_to_knee" name="#shirt_length_back"/>
@@ -24,6 +36,8 @@
         <increment formula="3" name="#armhole_width_front"/>
         <increment formula="9" name="#cuff_length"/>
         <increment formula="shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/>
+        <increment formula="45" name="#sleeve_width"/>
+        <increment formula="30" name="#sleeve_wrist_circumference"/>
         <increment formula="0.6" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
     </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
@@ -82,91 +96,129 @@
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+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="100" length="#sleeve_width" lineColor="black" mx="-3.34636" my="-2.01042" name="A26" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
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+            <point firstPoint="1" id="102" length="(#sleeve_width - #sleeve_wrist_circumference) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10226" my="-2.05174" name="A28" secondPoint="100" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+            <line firstPoint="102" id="111" lineColor="black" secondPoint="103" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="104" id="112" lineColor="black" secondPoint="105" typeLine="hair"/>
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@@ -183,9 +235,13 @@
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@@ -204,10 +260,14 @@
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@@ -216,6 +276,29 @@
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index b40090b..53e8245 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -9,7 +9,21 @@ treasury of domestic information
 <https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
 from 1880.
 
-
+This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
+seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
+a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
+you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
+opening and especially collar and cuffs for earch era.
+
+I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
+be hand sewn in the home, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home
+were most definitely a thing.
+
+If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
+everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything
+else, or to sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every
+time the instructions say to hemstitch something; buttonholes should
+probably still be done by hand, however.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -100,6 +114,12 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
    length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
    the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
    be;
+``sleeve_width``
+   the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this
+   is often half the ``shirt_width``;
+``sleeve_wrist_circumference``
+   the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
+   gathering it into the cuff;
 ``sewing_allowance``
    the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
    that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
@@ -117,12 +137,63 @@ those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the
 Draw mode as follows:
 
 back:
-   width: A – A2, height: A – A1;
+   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as
+   ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1);
 front:
-   width: A – A2, height: A — A8;
+   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as
+   ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8);
 sleeves:
-   ;
+   the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of
+   ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of
+   ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds
+   to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the
+   other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a
+   rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as
+   ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained
+   below.
 
 Instructions
 ------------
 
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
+
+.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
+   :align: center
+
+If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
+best way to cut it is as described on the book fold the rectangle in
+such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center and bast
+them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a – g and
+h – g is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of fabric
+along the fold.
+
+.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
+   :align: center
+
+After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you
+will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to
+complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
+won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
+for it not to be a problem.
+
+Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
+collar piece and four of each cuff piece.
+
+Front
+^^^^^
+
+Back
+^^^^
+
+Assembly of the body
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7006673
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
@@ -0,0 +1,75 @@
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