1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
|
1880 Shirt
==========
.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg
:align: center
A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's
treasury of domestic information
<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
from 1880.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
Pattern
-------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
You need to take the following measurements:
``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
;
``neck_circ`` (G02)
;
``bust_circ`` (G04)
;
``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
;
``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
;
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
;
``shoulder_length`` (I01)
;
``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
;
``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
;
``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
;
the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`.
You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible,
but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits
nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
``shirt_length_back``
usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``;
``shirt_length_front``
a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
``shirt_width``
the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical);
``front_slit_length``
the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
``button_placket_width``
the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste;
``ease``
the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two
variables;
``front_slit_width``
the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at
least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
pleated;
``front_gathers_width``
the final width to which the material in the front slit is gathered:
at least the width of the button placket;
``front_band_height``
the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
taste;
``yoke_depth``
from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends, to taste;
``cuff_length``
length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste;
``sleeve_length``
length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
be;
``sewing_allowance``
the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin
fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit
more.
The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are
used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width``
from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
ignore them.
The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements from the
Draw mode as follows:
back:
width: A – A2, height: A – A1;
front:
width: A – A2, height: A — A8;
sleeves:
;
Instructions
------------
|
